An attitude of exploration is required for Montana’s heartiest adventures. For example, a hiker can never be sure when a marked “trail” in a wilderness area might suddenly become an overgrown bushwhack from lack of use and maintenance. A scramble to a mountain summit in July might turn into a snowy opportunity for boot glissading. If you’re old enough to recall the ancient tools called a map and compass, keep those orienteering instruments on-hand in case of GPS technology snafus. Equally important to remember is that starting a hike in an 85-degree valley can give way to harsh cold weather conditions in high rocky peaks. Whether hiking into a National Park or one of Montana’s 15 designated wilderness areas, always be prepared for the unexpected.

If Glacier National Park is your destination, escaping visitor traffic is possible through longer day hikes or with a backcountry permit. Most park-goers visit popular haunts such as Avalanche Lake or Hidden Lake. Swiftly leave them behind by planning to hike extra miles to overnight sites. It’s a good idea to make online reservations for backcountry campsites in March or risk acquiring spontaneous walk-in permits at the park. Prepare a backup plan as trails or campsites may close unexpectedly due to bear activity, forest fires, and other environmental factors. Check online for more information on backcountry use in Glacier National Park at Nps.gov/glac/planyourvisit/backcountry.htm.

Pushing yourself to the edge of the earth can deliver magical moments; these experiences are revealed to those who are okay with a little backcountry blood, sweat, and tears. The struggle brings the greatest rewards. You’ll find all of the above in Montana’s backcountry if you’re willing to take a well-planned hike into wilder terrain.

Epic NW Montana Hiking Destinations

Jewel Basin

Strap on a backpack for this weekend warrior’s dream trip that samples some of Montana’s finest beauties. Alpine Trail #7 stretches 55 miles across the Swan Mountains from Columbia Mountain to Inspiration Point. The most populated access point is at Camp Misery. Hiking Mt. Aeneas is fast and rewarding, but its heavy-use is a deterrent. No problem—you can hike downstream from the crowd from various Jewel Basin access points. Try the lighter-use areas of the Jewel, accessed from Highway 83. In Big Fork, take Forest Service road 5398 (Bear Creek Road), near mile marker 85. Or take a drive past Swan Lake and start your hike from Napa Trail #31. Although you may encounter huckleberries and llamas, hiking traffic should be light.

Bob Marshall Wilderness

Take a week or more for a Bob Marshall Wilderness trip. Popular points of entry from Highway 83 are from Lion Creek (lion-palisades trail #25) and from Holland Lake area trails. If a week in “The Bob” is unachievable, take an overnight hike from Holland Lake to Sapphire Lake (trails #35 and #42), or walk farther to Necklace Lakes (trail #110). These well-marked developed routes get you closer to wilderness and away from Holland Lake trail traffic.

Cabinet Mountain Wilderness

To get away from it all without losing car parts on the drive to the trailhead, visit Geiger Lakes (trail #656). Day hike or overnight to wooded routes that open to big mountain views and alpine lakes. Travel further from Upper Geiger Lake to the Cabinet Divide Trail. If you have a compound bow and hunting tags, mountain grouse roasted over a rainy campfire gave new meaning to free-range chicken dinner— a true Montana pleasure framed by rocky mountain ledges around Geiger Lake. Rain or shine, the 90 miles of trails in the Cabinet Mountains give any backcountry wanderer days of epic journeys.

Hiking with Dogs

For those who hike with dogs, bringing them into the backcountry of National Parks isn’t an option. But this opens trip prospects overlooked by many visitors to Northwest Montana. A wooded rural highway winding its way between the Swan Divide and the Mission Mountains provides entry to trails within various public lands, including the Bob Marshall Wilderness. Check out trail access from Montana’s Highway 83 between Big Fork and Seeley. Spend a weekend perched with dramatic views of the Mission Mountains or Swan Mountains. It doesn’t get much better, and the people you meet along the way are scarce. //

Katie LeBlanc wrote about trail running in Glacier National Park in June.

The post Hiking Northwest Montana’s Backcountry appeared first on Out There Venture.

An Andes mountain native and a relative to the camel, llamas are born with ample genetics to easily get them through days of hiking in the Rocky Mountains. As low-maintenance as they are sure-footed, steep and rocky terrain is no match for these “camels of the clouds.” They began their packing-for-humans career about 5,000 years ago and were bred to carry the weight of early goods over the high mountain passes of South America. Some of the earliest llama packers helped to connect communities of people through commerce and trade. In modern days, they continue packing for people who simply want to connect with pristine backcountry places.

I’ve always considered my dog as the best hiking companion (sorry husband) but pondered alternatives when introduced to llamas. Apparently, llama trekking is a known practice that I’d never considered before taking a trip with Swan Mountain Llama Trekking. When first hired by an outfitter to promote Montana horseback riding and fishing, I chuckled when the llama brochure appeared. I wondered: do you ride the llama? Do they spit on people? And, how could a hike possibly be fun with a pack animal?

The first thing I discovered is that guides assist a lot when hiking with a llama trekking outfit. Getting ready for an overnight trip requires efficiency. They place gear into specialty packs, taking care to evenly distribute weight, and eventually attach packs to the backs of the lovely assistants. And there’s more good news: hiking with wine and fishing gear just got easy with this backcountry assist. Llamas can carry about 20% of their body weight, packing loads of 60 to 80 pounds for multi-day trips. That’s a lot of wine.

When finally packed, hikers take a lead rope while the llama follows alongside, traveling at about a 2 mile-an-hour pace. They occasionally jump on and off the trail, which can be alarming at first, but their unearthly heightened awareness keeps the animal from running over people. Though the trek is an ultra-light experience for the hiker, it is not a desired pace for an ultra-light trail runner. There’s definitely a time and place for this unique venture. Llama treks bring out smiles on family trips and groups that don’t want to carry backpacking weight yet seek the experience to get away from it all. And no, llamas don’t spit on people, though they might occasionally spit at other llamas when provoked.

At times llamas behave strangely, as if they’re aliens living on earth. They occasionally let out a throaty hum to communicate, and other animal species quickly shy away from the creature when encountered on the trail. Horses don’t appreciate the llama’s extraterrestrial appearance, and wildlife such as bear and coyote will keep their distance. Llamas are extremely alert, responding to new intruders by approaching with curiosity and intent; it’s why they are used on farms to protect agricultural herds from potential predators. This behavior is reassuring when recreating in Montana’s bear country. In fact, guides will tie-up llamas around trail-food storage to protect snacks from hungry critters of the night.

Llamas also embody amazing attributes; their camel genetics make the species incredibly low-maintenance for backcountry travel. They graze on leaves and twigs while hiking and rarely need to stop to eat. Additionally, llamas are excellent for both hiking and backcountry hunting, as they can go without drinking water for up to three days. These packer friends can be tied safely to a tree and left alone for a couple of days before the hunter returns to retrieve the llamas, who then assist with packing out harvested game.

No, I could never replace my best canine hiking buddy of 10 years; dogs are much more affectionate than llamas. However, the llama herbivore is one-with nature and won’t compete with your treasured piece of cheese; their prehensile lips are too busy grasping every stick in sight. And perhaps their agile lips can be trained to hold-up a bag of wine for a thirsty camper. Oh, the trail dreams that surface when spending days in the woods telecommunicating with a pack animal. Maybe backcountry travel is better with a llama! For more information on backcountry llama trekking in Montana, check out Llamatreksmontana.com. //

Katie LeBlanc wrote about trail running in Glacier National Park in June.

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So many trails and not enough time, so kick it up a notch and run to cover more ground. Some of the best runs around Glacier National Park are hiking trails that are rated as easy and moderate. The East Side of Glacier is equally scenic with less traffic than the west side of the park. On Glacier’s east side, there’s usually a lingering high-elevation snow-pack in early summer, but Glacier’s lower elevation running routes are typically dry and the early morning air is cool. Montana’s 2017 snowfall was significant, which translates into early summer trail runner views of the snowcapped Northern Rocky gems just as low-alpine wildflowers begin to bloom.

Recommended Trail Running/Hiking Trails

There are many trails to choose from, but here are a few recommendations to get you started. Take the Lubec trailhead as a quick and scenic three mile out-and-back run. Finding the trailhead can be difficult as there are no signs on the road. From US Route 2 East, find mile marker 203 located between Summit and the Firebrand Food & Ale restaurant. Park in the gravel turnout near the railroad tracks on the northwest side of the road. Cross the rails to the trailhead, marked by a Park Service sign. Run to the Autumn Creek South trail junction and turn around; continue to Firebrand Pass for a longer trek or head towards Marias Pass via Autumn Creek Trail South.

Another excellent option is exploring the trails out of the Two Medicine Campground in Glacier National Park. North Shore Trail is a moderate hike, and a joy to run since the path is so easy. Find the trailhead from Loop A of Two Medicine Campground, marked for “Oldman Lake and North Shore Trail.” North Shore Trail winds through forested areas, over avalanche chutes, and along the lake shore. Take the North Shore Trail to Upper Two Medicine Lake Trail for more mountain views, through meadows of flowers and berries. Making it to Upper Two Medicine Lake is a strong 10 mile out-and-back. Modify the quest and take a side trip to view Twin Falls, or create a loop by taking the South Shore Trail back. Research the many excellent trails of Two Medicine, and ask a ranger about routes and specifics for camping before your adventure.

National Park Vacation Races

Summer in the Northwest is calling, as are the many races vying for your registration dollars, including the Glacier Half Marathon (June 24, 2017). As destination races increase in popularity, one half marathon race company, Vacation Races, works tirelessly to corner this growing market. Vacation Races hit-the-ground running in 2012, taking road racers to some of the most beautiful and protected places on Earth — US National Parks. The company’s half marathon series now offers eleven race locations throughout the country. Northwest runners have easy access to several of these races being offered in the Northern Rockies, including near Glacier National Park, Yellowstone National Park and Grand Teton National Park.

Race routes align outside National Park boundaries, providing runners with an eye-full of the shockingly-beautiful Rocky Mountains. Most races are scheduled close to park shoulder seasons to avoid peak visitation dates, while helping to boost the economy for slower times within destination gateway communities. Additionally, the events are eco-minded, featuring cup-free races to eliminate unsightly waste from hydration stations by excluding disposable water cups.

As a bonus, a percentage of the race registration fees is donated to the National Park Foundation, to help preservation efforts within U.S. national parks. Vacation Race organizer Dehn Craig says that a two-year partnership with the National Park Foundation promised to raise $150,000 and has been a proven fundraising success, exceeding $250,000 so far. Learn more about the Glacier Half Marathon and other Vacation Races events at Vacationraces.com. //

Be Aware: Recreating in Glacier Comes with Rewards and Responsibility

There’s nothing like the feeling of feet pounding the trail at running speed. It’s the earth-beat known well by trail runners. Smells of plant life and melodies heard only in nature collide while zooming by under the open sky. Scanning the natural landscape during a run is a fulltime job for the senses and a time to be nothing but fully aware, especially in wild country where grizzly bears and cougars and spotted regularly. So take the ear buds out and enjoy the flow!

Awareness becomes a priority while traveling in Glacier Country at higher speeds while running or biking. Humans are not the top of the food chain in Northwest Montana. Be adventurous with caution. Don’t go alone if possible, carry bear spray, slow down around corners and use your senses to scan for wildlife. //

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Camping

Pack a sleeping bag and a smile, and take your weekend to Flathead Valley for under $100 after travel. Public land acreage is abundant in Montana, lending opportunities for recreating and camping. More than 30 Forest Service campgrounds exist within the Flathead National Forest alone. Several Forest Service campgrounds are open through the end of September (and some later); check closure dates before travel. And if you’re backpacking, the sky is the limit.

Glacier National Park

Autumn in Glacier National Park is a treat, though you have to be prepared as West Glacier amenities close down at the end of September. Count on only a few essentials to be open through October. Kick back at the charming, historic Belton Chalet Hotel Tap Room for post-hike fare and drinks. Live music fills the room here, exclusive to shoulder seasons. The Crown of the Continent Discovery Center’s one-stop shop is open through the end of October. There you can grab last-minute outdoor gear, local Montana libations at the bar, lunches to go, and Mexican food at La Casita restaurant.

Want to stay overnight in the park? Campsites drop reservation status after Labor Day and become first-come first -serve, making an overnight most achievable. Also check out the stunning hikes on the East side of the park. Stay at Two Medicine, Cut Bank or St. Mary campgrounds. Hiking, kayaking, and horseback trail rides are still available in the park after Labor Day, and are great family-friendly activities.

Recreating in Bear Country

Though it is an amazing experience to see a bear, the risk of bear encounters may increase during autumn months as the animals actively prepare for winter. If you are recreating in bear country, you should be aware of your surroundings, do not go alone if possible, and be sure to talk and make noise. Don’t just carry bear spray; know how to use it. Check in with the local public land agencies for wildlife details.

Flathead Local Favorites

Whitefish: Mountain bike Spencer Mountain trails; hike or bike the Big Mountain; explore Whitefish Lake State Park; discover the Tuesday Farmers Market through September; enjoy the views from the Skybar at Casey’s; hear live music at the Great Northern Bar; fill your growler at Bonsai Brewing Project; taste pizza at Jersey Boy’s Pizzeria and sushi at Wasabi; save money at Kalispell grocery stores.

Kalispell: Bike the Great Northern Historic Trail; shoot archery at Lone Pine State Parks outdoor archery course; cool off in Foyes Lake; mountain bike and trail run Herron Park; race and revel at the Montana Dragon Boat Festival; test your knowledge on trivia night at Kalispell Brewing Company; taste strawberry lemonade at Desoto Grille; view the sunrise from the top at Herron Park.

Bigfork Area: Trail run Alpine Trail #7 in the Jewel Basin; fish alpine lakes in Jewel Basin; breakfast at Echo Lake Café; explore Flathead Lake State Parks; taste outdoor drinks at The Raven in Woods Bay.

Columbia Falls: Hike Columbia Mountain; Fly fish the Flathead River; discover the Columbia Falls Community Market; float tube the Middle Fork Flathead River between West Glacier and Columbia Falls; eat and drink at Backslope Brewing. //

Katie LeBlanc wrote about biking in Northwest Montana in the June issue.

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