As a newbie fly fisherman, there are many wild trout waters I’ve floated or hiked by over the years that I intend to fish in the coming decades. Fernie is a top-of-the-list fly fishing travel destination I hope to check out for the first time this fall.

The Elk River, which flows right through town, offers anglers a shot at monster trout with plenty to do off-water, from mountain biking and hiking, to golf and exploring the pubs and restaurants in the historic downtown.

For me, this article is field research for what will hopefully come to pass as one awesome fall road trip.

The Elk River

The Elk River flows 140 miles from the dramatic peaks of the Continental Divide in the Canadian Rockies (specifically the Pétain Glacier next to Mt. Joffre) to Lake Koocanusa at the U.S. border. The stretches of river up and downstream from Fernie offer clear, clean, and cold water that trout thrive in.

The Elk River, so I’m told, has a reputation as one of the finest dry fly-fishing rivers in North America for Westslope Cutthroat and Bull Trout.

Local guide and shop owner Paul Samycia explains the allure of the Elk River this way: “The Elk River has what all fly anglers are looking for. A beautiful, free stone river with spectacular scenery, wild native fish eager to take a dry fly, miles and miles of wade-able and drift-able water with a great small town to base your adventure out of.”

The Catch

Locals laud the Elk River’s large population of Westslope Cutthroat Trout and their incredible color and spotting. These wild fish cruise the river’s surface in search of the flying insects that hatch in the warmer valley surrounding the town of Fernie.

While Bull Trout are hard to come by and protected in many waters in the U.S., it’s game on for this aggressive, hard-fighting fish around Fernie. Reportedly, resident Bull Trout on the Elk River above the Elko dam are regularly 20-30 inches or bigger.

Where to Fish Near Fernie, B.C.

Whether you are planning a DIY trip or looking for a guide, Tourism Fernie provides this excellent overview Elk River fishing beta that will help you get started for your trip to the north:

From the town of Sparwood down, the river gains momentum and girth. From Sparwood to Olsen, the river is known for big, greedy Westslope Cutthroat, long boulder sections, countless riffles and deep corner holes.

From Olsen to the hamlet of Hosmer is drift-boat heaven. Hosmer also has a boat launch and is a good place to start or finish a day. Hosmer down to Fernie offers braided sections and some big log jams with magical views of the Lizard Range. Buckets and holes are ripe for the casting on this stretch.

In the heart of Fernie is a boat launch at Dogwood Park with ample parking, a public washroom, and space for multiple boats.

The section from Fernie to Morrissey winds gently through perfect trout water and includes some long deep runs, riffles, and seams. The takeout at Morrissey Bridge has also had some work done recently and there is parking along the road with room for trailers.

Morrissey to Elko is the next haul and should be given a whole day. If you like fishing log jams, this stretch is for you. Some great stretches of wood provide perfect habitat that the cutties stack up under and along.

For more information about fishing the Elk River and Fernie, visit Tourismfernie.com.

Find more stories about fishing as well as adventure travel and recreation in Fernie, B.C. in the OTO archives.

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I’m on a “SLAYcation” road trip around the West Kootenay region of British Columbia visiting the newest mountain bike trails and breweries.

Along with photographer Peter Moynes, the Sprinter van we’re driving is state-of-the-art, complete with a solar-powered beer fridge and in-board air compressor for our bike tires. With it, we’re driving back in time. Not just the age before COVID, but a pre-iPhone time when people actually spoke in person.

Our roadtrip starts on the East Shore, which, as we discover immediately after disembarking the ferry, is like driving back to 2005, because we can’t see anyone on their smartphone.

“The East Shore” is a local term that refers to the area on the east shoreline of Kootenay Lake encompassing Riondel, Crawford Bay, Gray Creek and a few other tiny communities. It can be accessed via Highway 3A from Creston or the Kootenay ferry, the longest free scenic ferry in the world.

At its eastern terminal is the quaint Ladybug Coffee stand, which serves the heartiest breakfast sandwich in the province, and it’s here we realize we can ditch the Trailforks app and just chat up the locals for beta on where to ride, kind of like we all used to do at the turn of the century.

East Shore of Kootenay Lake

The East Shore is a place where social media and texting holds little sway as proven by our immediate connection with a random dude named Evan who we meet at the Ladybug. He asks us what we’re up to, and we say we’re looking for good mountain biking trails. He replies, “Oh, you definitely have to talk with Farley then. He’s responsible for a lot of the new trails here. I was just hanging out with him yesterday. Here’s his phone number.”

We call Farley and he tells us he’s a director of the East Shore Trail and Bike Association (ESTBA), knows all the sanctioned trails intimately, and lists his favorites. He then recommends we speak to Luke, who owns the broom company in Crawford Bay.

Another face-to-face visit, this time with Luke, garners us a list of trails to hit up as well as a recommendation to call Sandy Oates, the president of ESTBA, for more. “Here’s his number,” says Luke. 

We decide to hit a sanctioned network on the peninsula between Crawford Bay and Pilot Bay. It includes the beautiful Height of Land trail that offers a unique experience: viewing the Kokanee Glacier from the warmth of a Ponderosa pine forest. Whenever we stopped to take in the stellar views, I was overwhelmed by the cozy smell of the trees, reminiscent of hot-buttered movie theatre popcorn.

ESTBA oversees over 30 kilometers of trails around these parts and we highly recommend visiting—not just for the riding, but for the experience of meeting locals who’d rather spend time talking to you than staring at their phones.

No trip to the East Shore would be complete without a stop at the Gray Creek Store, our favorite purveyor of everything from wood stoves and cutlery to candy bars and fishing tackle. Talk about taking a step back in time. We wish there were more places like this in the world.

Kaslo and Ainsworth

The trip to the East Shore built up our appetites, so after returning across the ferry we immediately hit Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort for a bite. The hot springs have historical significance to the Ktunaxa people, who refer to them as “nupika wu’u” or “Spirit Water.”

Ainsworth is, indeed, an amazing place to rejuvenate your spirits, especially since undergoing many renovations after being sold to the Lower Kootenay Band of Creston in 2015.

All we had time for was a restoration of our energy with food and beer, but we enjoyed the redesigned restaurant, which offers beauty views of the surrounding mountains and Kootenay Lake.

We were in a race against the light, so booked it north where we’d heard of a new art installation tucked amongst the trees of the Kaslo River Trail. We parked at the northern trailhead, crossed the covered bridge, and it wasn’t long before we spotted the statues peeking out behind moss-covered boulders.

Designed by the Koots Artist Collective, a group of three artists from the community of Argenta, these life-sized figures are popping up all around North Kootenay Lake. The largest concentration of them are alongside this three-kilometer loop trail in Kaslo, which is appropriate, as the woods here are the perfect environs for pixies, fairies, and other whimsical creatures. The kids will love this one.

When it was too dark, Peter and I drove the five minutes into downtown Kaslo, doffed the bike gear, and hit the Angry Hen Brewery for a flight. Brewmaster Shirley Warne established this craft brew pub in 2017 and she was there holding court with a number of other locals when we arrived. We enjoyed plenty of tasty brews with such names as Kluckin Kölsch, Tough Old Bird, and Roostertail (my favorite) before Peter insisted we stagger around the sidewalks snapping photos.

Eventually we walked up Front Street to the Kaslo Hotel where we enjoyed more beer and at some point went to our room, which I’m told by Peter was very stylish, comfortable, and had a beautiful view of Kootenay Lake. I liked the pillows.

Nelson

The following day was spent recovering in our hometown of Nelson. Normally we’d be excited about visiting the various breweries here on assignment, but, given the superfluous swilling in Kaslo the night before, we can only share with you our list of the best breweries and trails here based on decades of drinking and riding.

The craft brew establishments include Nelson Brewing Company, Backroads, and Torchlight. Visit them all. Like Kaslo, Nelson is small enough that the breweries are within walking distance of one another. But I recommend drinking more responsibly than we did to avoid a hangover.

For family-friendly riding, check out Fairly High Trail off Giveout Creek Road. For perfectly buff downhill, visit the Morning Mountain trails. As for old-school fun, hit the Mountain Station network. Info for all these can be found through the Nelson Cycling Club.

Originally published as “Bikes, Beer, and One Big Lake in Canada” in the July-August 2022 print issue.

Vince Hempsall lives in Nelson, BC, where he spends his time rock climbing, backcountry skiing, and mountain biking (when not working). He is the editor of “Kootenay Mountain Culture Magazine.”

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An easy four-hour drive from Spokane, the Arrow Lakes region—which includes Castlegar, the Slocan Valley, and Nakusp—is a family-friendly paradise complete with hot springs, lakeshore hikes, mountain bike trails, vineyards, innumerable paddling opportunities, museums, galleries, a ghost town, and plenty of fishing holes for every type of angler.

The best part of visiting the region from April to October is the lack of visitors. Popular destinations in Montana, Idaho, and Washington are overrun with people in the summertime, but in the Arrow Lakes region of British Columbia, you’re more likely to spot wildlife than human life. It’s simply the best-kept secret for American families who live within a day’s drive of the border.

Named for the 144-mile long Arrow Lakes system and the 1,000-foot deep Slocan Lake, the region encompasses three valleys resting on either side of the Selkirk Mountains, connected by the Columbia and Kootenay rivers. Appropriately shaped like a diamond, the region’s southern end is near the Canadian/American border just south of Castlegar and extends both northwest to Upper Arrow Lake and the community of Fauquier, and also northeast up the Slocan Valley to Nakusp and Halcyon Hot Springs.

Given the plethora of water, it’s the perfect place for families to visit for a long weekend, a week, or an entire month. There are five provincial parks in the region including McDonald Creek, Rosebery, Summit Lake, Syringa, and Valhalla, as well as many private campgrounds and recreational sites where you can set up a tent or park an RV. If your basecamp needs to include more amenities, there are also many hotels, inns, lodges, B&Bs and cabins to suit a range of group sizes and needs.

Below are some suggested daily itineraries in the Arrow Lakes, based on your family’s interests.

Water Ways

From lakes and rivers to streams, ponds, waterfalls and hot springs, there is no shortage of water in the Arrow Lakes region. Fishing, paddling, boating, swimming and beach-side camping opportunities abound.

Families with small children will want to start their visit with a swim in the natural ponds on the shores of Columbia River at Millennium Park in Castlegar. This is the largest urban park in the region where you’ll find beach volleyball courts, a bike park and plenty of shoreline fishing spots.

Nearby, there are beautiful waterfalls and lakeside camping spots at Syringa Provincial Park on the shores of Lower Arrow Lake. This is where one of the world’s largest Kokanee salmon was caught. You’ll find excellent trout and walleye fishing here and on the Columbia River.

After exploring the Arrow Lakes near Castlegar, drive east to the Slocan Valley to join a guided rafting trip with Endless Adventure. You can also rent kayaks, paddleboards and safety equipment, then go play in the Slocan River or on Slocan Lake.

Continuing north, be sure to stop at Summit Lake and Box Lake, where you’ll find excellent trout fishing. Then take your pick of hot springs to visit, including the community-owned Nakusp Hot Springs and the luxurious Halycon Hot Springs Resort.

Silvery Trail

Silver mining is what drove development in the Arrow Lakes region in the mid to late 1800s, leaving behind historical locations and mining memorabilia.

Start your adventure in Castlegar, the Sculpture Capital of Canada. Visit the perfectly preserved Railway Museum and Doukhobor Discovery Centre that is home to 10 historical buildings that recreate the culture of the pacifist farming people who profoundly shaped this region in the early 1900s.

From there, drive northeast along the Slocan Valley to the quaint former mining towns of Slocan, Silverton, and New Denver. Nearby is the ghost town of Sandon where you’ll still see many of the old buildings, including the old city hall and powerhouse.

Finish your historical tour at the recently remodeled Nakusp Museum to view artifacts from homes impacted by flooding of the valley in 1960s when the Hugh Keenleyside Dam was built on the Columbia River.

Out and About

If outdoor recreation is more your family’s speed, everything is offered in the Arrow Lakes from hiking and biking to golfing and climbing. There are a dozen rock climbing areas around Castlegar, Lower Arrow Lake, and Slocan City with hundreds of routes for beginners to experts, as well as a burgeoning bouldering scene.

For golfers, in Castlegar you’ll find three courses (as well a disc golf course), plus two other golf courses in the Slocan Valley, one in Nakusp, and one in the tiny community of Fauquier.

Of the many hiking opportunities in the region, some of the best family-friendly ones can be found near the Nakusp Hot Springs. Simply pick one of the seven in the area that range from 0.5 to 5 miles in length, then enjoy a relaxing soak in the hot springs afterward.

There’s also the Nakusp and Slocan Rail Trail, a gentle grade trail converted from a rail line that runs 28 miles from Nakusp to Summit Lake. Road bikers will love the stunning views and lack of traffic in the Arrow Slocan region. Mountain bikers have their pick of hundreds of miles of singletrack, including adaptive trails at Mount Abriel, south of Nakusp, and the Merry Creek Trails in Castlegar that are famous for their hand-built structures and stunts.

Vince Hempsall lives in the beautiful Kootenay region of British Columbia, where he spends his time rock climbing, backcountry skiing, and mountain biking (when not working). He is the editor of “Kootenay Mountain Culture Magazine.”

Find more stories about adventure travel to Canada in the OTO archives.

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It’s now time to enjoy those bits of the great outdoors that have been off limits. And what better place to bust out again than Rossland, British Columbia, the capital of Canadian mountain biking less than three hours north of Spokane?

In-Town Epic Riding

According to Caroline Rousselle, one of the owners of Revolution Cycles in Rossland (a must visit!), what makes Rossland befitting its status as Canada’s mountain biking capital is the wide variety of trails that are accessible directly from town, no car required. Anyone enjoying these trails has the Kootenay Columbia Trail Society (KCTS) that built and maintains them to thank.

The trails, says Rousselle, as described on the Trailforks app, are accurately labeled. When there’s a black diamond, you better not overestimate your abilities or fitness.

If you are looking for something Rouselle describes as a “bit more flowy,” then the blue-square intermediate trails are for you. That means, if you want to tackle the local epic Seven Summits, you need to be fit and capable. It may well contain the toughest 30 kilometers (18 miles) you’ll ride, with more than 4,500 feet of climbing.

Bring all the food and drink you’ll need for the average five hours it takes to complete. The Trailforks rating for the Seven Summits is “extreme.” And they mean it.

Along with a great trail system, Rossland has become a leader in adaptive mountain biking, providing a welcoming space for athletes who have suffered spinal cord injuries that would otherwise keep them from cycling. Similarly, every trail but the Seven Summits, due to the delicate trail surface and ecology, is open to Class 1 eBikes.

New Trails & Amenities Open along with the Border

So what’s happened in and around Rossland since the COVID-19 border closure? Stewart Spooner, operations manager for KCTS, says “We’ve had quite a few developments in the past couple of years.”

The Millennial Trail Expansion opened in 2020, adding 5.8K of trails at the base of Red Mountain with advanced, intermediate, and novice climbing and cross-country terrain and connections to Paydirt trails. Another new trail is the machine-built, bermed, and jump-filled Dragontail, adding a bike-park experience, though without lift access.

Spooner says that KCTS has also created an entirely off-road loop of trails connecting the Larch Ridge trail network, including the popular Monticola trail. KCTS is also developing the new Mxiɬp Xewílh (Cedar Trail), an 18K moderate trail connecting Nancy Green Pass to the Larch Ridge Trail network and RED Mountain Resort. The lower section will open mid-summer 2022, with the entire trail ready for Spring 2023. That’s lots of new terrain for those who have previously ridden the Rossland area.

It’s not just that trail system that has grown in Rossland since the border closure. Kylie Lakevold of Tourism Rossland reports that “during the pandemic more new businesses opened versus closed.”

New restaurants include Rossberry Hill Bistro at RED Mountain Resort and The Underbelly Bistro downtown. There’s a new chef at The Velvet Restaurant too. Shopping has expanded, there are new and expanded art options, and lodging has improved with renovations at The Wild Turkey and The Flying Steamshovel inns.

When to Go

Rossland’s elevation of 3,356 feet means warm weather begins in late-May and many trails can hold snow in places through June. The subalpine Seven Summits doesn’t typically open until early July, closing in late October.

Most trails receive regular maintenance one the snow melts and the trails dry out, but it’s always worth a call up to Revolution Cycles in Rossland for a trail update.

Find more stories about Rossland, B.C., in the OTO archives.

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The flakes are already flying up north in Canada. And your skis are calling, saying, “Hey you—this winter can we please do a B.C. adventure? I miss soft and fluffy snow on my bases.” Besides, you need to clear your head out, with everything that has built up over the past months (or years).

Let the powdery snow work its magic to refresh the mind, let your soul run wild, and harness all that’s good. Let it all come back. Point ‘em north and explore all the hidden gems we have to offer.

But first, let’s go through what crossing that border looks like these days, followed by a few key places to shred this winter along British Columbia’s Powder Highway.

Don’t Let Paperwork Get in the Way of Powder Dreams

It’s a sweet drive north to Canada from Spokane and North Idaho as farm fields give way to forested hills before you reach one of the many border crossings.

In this evolving COVID era, reaching one of the Kootenay’s quiver of powder pleasers along the Powder Highway (Whitewater, Red, Fernie, Kimberley, and Kicking Horse) requires you to show proof of vaccination and get a COVID PCR test showing negative results within 72 hours of your planned arrival into Canada.

Before you head out, visit ArriveCAN online to enter your proof of vaccination with approved vaccines (Moderna, Johnson, Pfizer and AstraZeneca).

Stop Staring at Webcams—Let’s Do This

There are many ways to experience a Kootenay escape this winter. Here are a few favorite options.

1. Family Escape

To make it easy, the key is slopeside stays. Kimberley’s Trickle Creek Lodge comes complete with a pool and condo-style accommodations, including a kitchen to whip up delights. Right out front is the learning area, separate from regular skier traffic—voila, the kids are taken care of at Kimberley Alpine Resort.

Throw in those epic kids’ trails through the woods for the little rascals, which they’ll dare you to follow them into, and the kids will be over the moon. Don’t worry, there are endless gladed trails for tree skiing and real killer fall-line runs for the ‘rents’ to get their fix here.

2. Snow Dreams

Living in a snow globe is so sweet. To experience it first-hand, head to Fernie, B.C., with its cool authentic mountain town that has it all, from craft shops, to epic eats and some of the best artisan coffee in existence. Let’s focus on Fernie Alpine Resort though, as it boasts the most alpine bowls, biggest vertical, and deepest snow in the Canadian Rockies—of course, that’s why you’re here, isn’t it?

3. Steeps, Chutes, & Champagne

It’s still a secret, so keep it to yourself. Kicking Horse Mountain Resort is the real deal. We’re serious. Honestly, until you try this place, you won’t know what you’re missing. So don’t go another year without experiencing the most chute skiing in North America (over 80 chutes!).

Just think how many people talk about Jackson Hole’s similar terrain when it only has a handful of chutes, and nothing to match the caliber and variety that this Horse has.

But it’s not all gnarly terrain. There are tons of groomers and intermediate trails too. Kicking Horse is also home to the 5^th biggest vertical in North America and Canada’s highest restaurant to boot, perfect for that cheers, eh!

Some Don’t Miss & Additional Details

Be sure to check each ski resort for their COVID safety update section before you go, so you are aware of any required protocols. Currently at ski resorts across British Columbia, all will require proof of vaccination to enter restaurants, and some have that mandate for all indoor facilities.

Be prepared with a mask for lift lines and gondola rides too. But double check the latest before your departure, because as of this writing, many are still working out final details and protocols.

A Few Sweet Kootenay-Local Secrets

Enjoy ski-in and ski-out. Only 50 feet from the lift at Fernie Alpine Resort, stay at Lizard Creek Lodge with its newly-renovated main lodge. You won’t mind the sweet slopeside pool and hot tub either.

Get in your Pod. A new pod hotel experience is now open at Raging Elk Adventure Lodging. Save money, ski more, and enjoy this fun environment in downtown, Fernie, B.C.

Purcell Heli Skiing. Same incredible terrain, awesome guides, and now new ownership are part of the CMH family. They are one of the few daily adventure heli skiing options, so book a date for heli skiing after you have skied a couple days at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort. That’s what we call a perfect powder combo.

Powder Matt is a professional ski bum and writer from Kimberley, BC, who lived in his car for 63 days one winter so he could ski every day. He wrote about skiing the Kootenays during the COVID border closure in the March-April 2021 issue of Out There.

This story was originally published in the Out There Snow special section in the November-December 2021 print issue.

Find more stories about skiing in British Columbia its Powder Highway in the OTO archives.

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I’ve also spent an unusual amount of time this winter wondering how the skiing life is transpiring at some of my favourite places north of the border. Like what’s a powder day at RED or WH2O like without us Americans crowding up the lift lines, filling condos and hotel rooms, and engaging in unusually loud après? What’s the scene like up at Kootenay Pass?

Since illegally skiing into Canada for a first-hand story was out of the question, we tapped Kimberley, B.C. local and self-proclaimed ski bum “Powder Matt” to share some words about the pandemic skiing life along B.C.’s Powder Highway.

Meet Powder Matt

“Powder” Matt Mostellar lived in his car for 63 days one winter so he could ski every day. When he isn’t backcountry skiing, hitting long trails, or drinking craft coffee in Kimberley, B.C, he shares stories through major media outlets to inspire people to get their own goodness outside. He is a passionate advocate of ways to seek a deeper good in life and greater community value through more time in nature. To that end, he is the co-founder of the #TimeOut and #DisconnecttoConnect movement as well as the co-creator of #MappyHour Canada, which inspires people to get outside.

Where did the Powder Matt handle come from? Years ago while ski touring with a group of friends, one of them said they were done for the day. One of Matt’s buddies turned to that guy and said, “Well, you got to get the flake-face ‘Powder Matt’ convinced it’s time to go.” And the name stuck like powder snow in a winter beard. Powder Matt has spent the pandemic living in Kimberley, B.C. “We love this place,” he says. “It’s a real community of passion-filled outdoor lovers. We had lived here before and returned pre-COVID to be back in the mountains with trails and forest out the back door. And it’s six minutes from the ski runs.”

Derrick Knowles, who grew up in Spokane, is co-publisher and editor-in-chief. He lives in Spokane with his wife (and co-publisher and OTO visual editor), Shallan, and their young son and dog, Fernie. He enjoys skiing, camping, biking, running, year-round backcountry adventures, and pretty much all other outdoor recreation. Follow his adventures on Instagram, @van_derrick_pnw.

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Program coordinator Brian Bell, who has worked for MAST for over 22 years, says, “We don’t get many American students for some reason—only one American student every 3-4 years. You’d think it would be way more popular [especially because it’s] a good deal with the exchange rates.” International students must apply for a “Study Permit” and provide proof of medical insurance that’s valid in Canada in order to join the program. 

Though the average age is 23, Bell says students range from 19 to 50 years old, and the typical incoming student is less interested in a traditional academic college education. “Some want a career in adventure tourism, some don’t know, some come here to learn skills to go out into the mountains on their own,” he says. What MAST students all have in common, though, is they’re adventurous, athletic, and definitely like winter.

 “The MAST program motivated me to become an avalanche dog handler and avalanche tech, specializing in search and rescue,” says MAST 2010 alumna Jamie McCaffrey, 31. She has also worked as a professional ski patroller. Other MAST alumni have started their own guide service companies, like 2001 alumnus Mike Trehearne, founder of Cloud Nine Guides. “It’s very cool to see where our alumni have gone, and many are now raising families of adventure lovers,” says Bell. 

In the U.S., the Pacific Northwest is home to a handful of institutions offering degrees or certificates in recreation, outdoor leadership, eco-tourism, and similar fields. From Bellingham to Missoula, schools are based in cities surrounded by expedition opportunities. In Coeur d’Alene, North Idaho College (NIC) has an Outdoor Recreation Leadership program, where experiential learning outdoors helps “students grow both intellectually and physically,” says Professor Paul Chivvis. Boasting a 100 percent job placement rate, Chivvis says his students have become professional ski patrollers at local mountains and have found careers paths with the U.S. Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management.  They are also recreation guides in sea kayaking, therapeutic recreation, fishing, and hunting. 

Andrew Pierce, 31, earned his NIC Outdoor Leadership Certificate in 2012 and has worked as a professional ski patroller and a guide for heli-skiing, whitewater rafting, ice climbing, and mountaineering. Now he’s an avalanche forecaster for the Washington Department of Transportation. NIC’s program, he says, offers progressive learning of “basic skills necessary to survive and thrive in all sorts of outdoor environments and sports, and then develops you to be a thoughtful and impactful decision-maker who is ready to help others explore the same way you do.” 

He considers his eight months at NIC as some of the best in his young adult life. A grueling snow cave camping expedition during his Introduction to Mountaineering class especially impacted him. “What once terrified me now brings an amazing sense of joy,” says Pierce. “Ski patrolling, heli-ski guiding, and avalanche forecasting can lead you into some pretty intense weather and demands full attention and focus. I often think back to that trip with Paul [Chivvis] whenever the wind is pounding snowflakes against my face with 50 mph winds.”

An outdoor recreation degree can also be a stepping-stone to an evolving career trajectory, like it was for Nick Parkert, 38, a Washington State Department of Fish & Wildlife (WDFW) enforcement officer. After earning his bachelor’s degree in Recreation Leadership & Management from Western Washington University in 2004, with a focus on wilderness therapy, Parkert worked as a youth wilderness guide in Maine. Realizing it wouldn’t be a long-term career for him, he moved back to Washington and became a park ranger at Riverside State Park, near Spokane, which required police academy training. Six years later, when decreased funding for state parks caused widespread layoffs, he wanted to continue working outdoors—and also really enjoyed law enforcement. This led him to WDFW. First assigned to the northeast Washington office in Colville—overseeing Ferry, Stevens, and Pend Oreille counties—he transferred this past summer after seven years to a WDFW region for Pierce and Kitsap counties. 

“Even though my job is more regulatory, I am still outside and can feel some of the joy that those people are experiencing,” Parkert says, referring to people fishing along shorelines. Combining his love for the outdoors, recreation interests, and wildlife conservation values, he finds it personally rewarding to help protect “animal populations for future generations,” including for his own two daughters.

Some jobs will never be outsourced. Snowboard instructors, ski patrollers, and park rangers are needed by those of us who toil away inside, escaping to mountains on our days off. Whether it’s guiding, forecasting avalanches, or training a dog for search and rescue, work inspired by love for outdoor recreation feels less like work and more like daily adventures.

Check out these Regional Outdoor Recreation Degree Programs:

• College of the Rockies (Fernie, B.C.): Adventure Tourism certificate or degree, Mountain Adventure Skills Training (MAST).
• Eastern Washington University: B.A. Outdoor Recreation Leadership.
• North Idaho College: A.A.S. degree or certificate, Outdoor Recreation Leadership.                                      
• Oregon State University: Tourism, Recreation, & Adventure Leadership degree.
• Spokane Community College: A.A.S. degrees or certificate options; Natural Resource Management (forestry), Parks and Recreation, Wildlife/Fisheries, and Arboriculture/Urban Forestry.
• University of Idaho: Bachelor’s in Recreation, Sport, and Tourism. 
• University of Montana: Bachelor and master degrees in Parks, Tourism, & Recreation.
• Western Washington University: B.A. in Recreation Management & Leadership.

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Tucked under a thick canopy of cedar trees, each cabin sleeps up to five in rustic luxury—think thick beams, hardwood floors, and hand-crafted furniture, befitting Ymir’s history as a timber community. The cabins are ideally situated for south Kootenays snow. Twenty minutes north lie the famed glades and cliff faces of Whitewater Ski Resort (and since you’ll be coming from the opposite direction as Nelson, you won’t have to contend with first-chair rush hour).  

Fifteen minutes to the south, Salmo Ski Hill epitomizes small-hill charm, where tickets run about $30 CAD and kids cling for dear life on the steep T-bar line. The hill’s night skiing, offered every Monday–Thursday, is a beloved Kootenays institution. And Kootenay Pass is only 20 minutes beyond Salmo, which gives backcountry enthusiasts a solid head start on skiers from Nelson and those coming from stateside. Stocked with woodstoves and warm robes, the lodge is also perfectly situated for staying put. // 

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As the first stop on Canada’s Powder Highway coming from Spokane, Red Mountain Resort’s 110 runs and abundant terrain are what really make the first-class accommodation worthwhile. 300 inches of snow each year, affordable cat skiing ($10/run), and multiple summits accessed by eight chairlifts cater to beginner through expert skiers and riders.  

The Josie is positioned between Red Chair, which charges directly to the summit of Red Mountain (5,219 feet), and the Silverlode Chair, which shuttles you to a cat track and additional chairlifts that access the summits of Granite (6,807 feet) and Grey (6,719 feet). The 360-degree descents from Granite Mountain will have beginner and intermediate skiers enjoying turns toward Paradise Lodge while advanced skiers get frisky on Buffalo Ridge and the adjacent chutes and trees. 

After a day skiing your legs into oblivion, or mingling with other dabblers in the lodge, The Josie’s Velvet Restaurant and Lounge stands out as the most inspired amenity of the resort. The exquisite gravity of executive chef Marc-Andre Choquette’s French-influenced seasonal fare and locally inspired drink menu will pull you back for every meal. It satisfies the most ravenous post-ski appetite with an ingredient-forward take on a classic burger. For a full menu experience, start with crispy Brussels sprouts doused with spicy Korean BBQ sauce. Then enjoy the red and yellow beet salad, garnished with crispy quinoa, puffed wild rice, compressed fennel, and licorice-garlic dressing. Finally, savor the pan-seared halibut and saffron bouillabaisse broth, roasted squash, and squid ink tapioca crackers. For a robust culinary experience, ask your server for wine pairings, and under no circumstances should you skip desert. 

If The Josie sounds out of reach, think again. The 30 percent “Canadian discount” thanks to the strong U.S. dollar makes luxury travel more accessible to everyday Americans. Plus, the hotel honors AAA discounts and offers ski packages for additional savings, as well as a “kids ski, stay, and eat for free all winter long” promotion.  //

Originally published as “Play Hard, Pamper Hard” in the December 2019 issue BC Ski & Winter Travel Guide.

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