Fat bikers from around the region are still planning to gather outdoors in North Idaho for two events this winter as long as pandemic safety guidelines allow it.

Fatty Flurry Fest

In its 7^th year, the annual Fatty Flurry Fest held at Round Lake State Park usually includes casual group rides on groomed trails and bonfire revelry. Event organizers at Greasy Fingers Bikes N’ Repair in Sandpoint recommend following the event on Facebook to get the latest information on what this year’s event will look like, scheduled for Jan. 30.

Fatsquatch

New this year, Fatsquatch, the region’s first-ever endurance fat bike race, is set for February 21 on the groomed trails of Pine Street Woods in Sandpoint (Pine Street Woods community Facebook page). According to the event website, the race will run from noon to 6 p.m., with lights required for the last 90 minutes of the race. The rider or team who completes the most laps from each race category wins. Each lap runs 2.6 miles along the perimeter of the Pine Street Woods trail network and includes around 400 feet of elevation gain and loss.

Racers must be completely self-supported and e-bikes and bikes with tire width under 3.8” are not allowed. Space is limited, so register early at Pendoreillepedalers.org/fatsquatch.

Learn about regional groomed fat-biking trails.

Originally published as “Fat Bikers Rally in North Idaho” in the January-February 2021 issue.

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Each year we’re seeing more fat bikes plowing through the snow on trails here in the Inland Northwest, a trend that has also led to more trail grooming throughout the region. From Spokane to Sandpoint, there will be miles of packed trails to roll your over-sized, under-inflated bike tires on this winter if Mother Nature cooperates as expected. Here’s the latest fat bike trail grooming forecast for the winter.

Spokane

If you plan to ride any of the growing miles of groomed fat bike trails in the Spokane area this winter, thank Evergreen East volunteer Frank Benish, who owns his own groomer and spends countless hours advocating for and creating miles of groomed riding for fat bikers. To get it all done, Evergreen leases a groomer from Wheel Sport and Benish also owns his own Snowdog grooming machine that’s super speedy and creates groomed singletrack trails.

Riverside State Park was one of the first trail systems in the region to see trails specifically groomed for fat bikers, says Benish. “It’s been a real good partnership at Riverside and we’re looking to carry that on again this year.” Two winters ago, the park’s partnership with Evergreen turned into 11 miles of groomed fat bike trails, with an expansion to 20 miles last season. Benish says this year could be even better if we get good snow and stable cold temps. “We have permission to groom a larger area at Riverside, and if the forecast cooperates, we will expand beyond 20 miles of groomed trails this year.”

Benish also highlighted some new fat bike trails that are in the works for Mount Spokane State Park. “We got permission to clean up and groom some trails off of lower Kit Karson that make up the Hay Ridge Loop. It’s going to be kind of an advanced thing since it’s really steep going up and down.” Benish says the groomed loop will be around 6 miles roundtrip, with longer, more challenging rides possible by linking up to un-groomed trails. The route will be accessed from the parking area at the hairpin lot, also known as the lower Mount Kit Carson loop road trailhead. 

The 49 Degrees North Nordic Area will also feature fat biking on some excellent groomed trails this winter. Under certain conditions when the snow is firm enough to avoid tires damaging the smooth, groomed trails, says Benish, they also allow fat bikes on the Nordic trails. There are 4-5 miles of trails that make for a more intermediate-to-advanced loop.

Fat biking at Mt. Spokane State Park. // Photos: Frank Benish

North Idaho

In the greater Sandpoint area, there is an ever-expanding network of fat bike trails both groomed and user-packed to explore says owner Brian Anderson. Close to town, the Pend Oreille Pedalers will use their groomer once again to pack down trails for fat bikes in the Pine Street Woods, a fantastic public playground and natural area on the edge of Sandpoint that’s been preserved thanks to the Kaniksu Land Trust. Groomed fat bike trails here, with free access, will expand this year, weather cooperating, to include a few loops totaling around five miles.

Close to Sandpoint, the Western Pleasure Guest Ranch grooms approximately four miles of trails for xc and skate skiing as well as for fat bikes. A pass procured from the lodge is required. Farragut State Park south of Sandpoint grooms two loops with around 10 miles of fat bike riding. A state park pass is required.

Schweitzer Mountain Resort grooms approximately 32K of trails for cross-country, skate skiing, and fat biking. A pass is required, as is brushing up on the resort’s rules and responsibilities to keep bikes from damaging the groomed trails.

To the north, the Boundary County Bike and Pedestrian Trail Committee, known as “9B Trails,” has been preserving and developing a non-motorized trail system around Bonners Ferry that includes several trails that make for great winter riding. The non-profit group has recently gotten their hands on a groomer and, according to Anderson, plan to groom around 6-miles of the Section 16 Trails near Bonners Ferry.

The Priest Lake area will once again have miles of groomed trails open to fat bike riders thanks to Priest Lake Nordic. The non-profit group grooms several trail networks around the lake, including Hanna Flats, the Priest Lake Golf Course, Chipmunk Rapids, Rocky Point, Coolin Mountain, and Priest Lake State Park/Indian Creek. A park and ski permit is required and can be purchased at Hill’s Resort, The Tamrak (market/hardware store), or the Priest Lake State Park. More info at Idpr.idaho.gov.

Coeur d’Alene

Coeur d’Alene fatty riders also have some quality groomed options according to Trail Maniacs founder and avid rider Dave Dutro. “The Trail Maniacs Foundation will groom seven plus miles of trails on Canfield Mountain this year,” says Dutro. “These are what we call winter enduro trails,” he says, warning off those who may show up unprepared for the challenge. According to Dutro, that means these trails come with a difficult climb up (approximately four miles with 1,200 of elevation gain) followed by flowy single track down.

The prized route Dutro recommends starts at the road from Nettleton Gulch then on to the towers, down Trail D and eventually on to Trail 7 and Trail A, finishing down Cave Trail for a total of 8 miles. When you can get after these trails is a question for mother nature, says Dutro. “We start grooming once we have significant coverage at the bottom, in the 4-6” range.”

Palouse (Pullman/Moscow)

Down in the Palouse, MAMBA (Moscow Area Mountain Bike Association) has a groomer and should be doing some fat bike trail grooming on Moscow Mountain again this year. Keep tabs on their good deeds at Bikemoscow.org.

Fat Biking Resources

Looking to connect with other fat bike aficionados in the Spokane area? Reach out to SOFA, Spokane’s Original Fatbike Association on Facebook; It’s a private group that you need to request to be a part of before gaining access to trail and grooming reports, group ride announcements, and other regional fat biking news.

Originally published as “Fat Bike Fandom Spurs Growth in Trail Grooming” in the Nov.-Dec. 2020 double issue.

Trail grooming equipment. // Photos: Frank Benish

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Jingle Bell 5K Run: Dress up in festive, colorful attire for this fun-run or walk on Dec. 7 at Spokane’s Riverfront Park to raise money for the Arthritis Foundation.  

Festivals & Tree Lightings: Regional events include Parade of Lights in Missoula (Dec. 7); Wallace Retro Christmas festival (Dec. 7-8 & 14-15); Holiday Fest & Tree Lighting in Pullman (Dec. 7), which includes a YMCA Kid’s Jingle Bell Fun Run; and the epic Christmas Lighting Festival in Leavenworth (Dec. 6-8, 13-15, & 20-22). 

Holiday Lights: Destinations include Manito Park’s Gaiser Conservatory  in Spokane, open Dec. 7-31 (extended dates this year); Luminaria Walk at Yakima Area Arboretum (Dec. 9-10); and Lighted Boat Parade along the Columbia River between Kennewick and Richland (Dec. 6 and 7). 

DIY moonlit fat bike, snowshoe, or cross-country ski adventure. The Cold Full Moon is December 12—also referred to as the “frost” or “long nights moon” according to The Old Farmer’s Almanac.  

Christmas Tree Hunt: Cut down your own tree at a Christmas tree farm or make the hunt a National Forest backcountry adventure. Purchase a tree-cutting permit from your local U.S. Forest Service ranger office and follow regulations to harvest your own rustic fir tree. More info at fs.fed.us. (Can also harvest trees on BLM land.)

Ice Skating & Yoga at Riverfront Park: Riverfront Park Skate Ribbon is open daily, with free ice-skating lessons every Sunday, 11 a.m.-noon, and there are free yoga classes at the Pavilion on Tuesday evenings.   

Cross-country ski and fat bike in the city: When there is enough snow in Spokane and many other Inland NW towns, groomed trails may be available at select locations. In Spokane, that includes Indian Canyon Golf Course (ski only), Riverside State Park (ski and fat bike), and Dwight Merkel Park (ski and fat bike). All are free to use, except the state park requires a Discover Pass. More details at the City of Spokane website. 

Night Skiing/Snowboarding: Starting Friday, Dec. 20, Mt. Spokane’s alpine area remains opens for night skiing until 9:00 p.m. (earlier time this year), recurring Wednesdays-Saturdays through mid-March. (Note: Previous years night skiing ended at 9:30 p.m.) Sunsets and summit views of area city lights are spectacular. Other regional resorts also offer night skiing. 

Dress-up like Santa and ski/snowboard for free: On Dec. 21, Mt. Spokane Ski & Snowboard Park will host an all-day Holiday Party, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., as well as a Jingle Rails terrain park event. Anyone who dresses in a full Santa outfit receives a free lift ticket that day. Lookout Pass hosts its Santa dress-up and ski-free day on Dec. 22. 

Ski/Ride with Santa: On Dec. 23, Santa Claus will visit Schweitzer Mountain Resort to ski and ride with kids. Then on Dec. 24 he’ll fly to Lookout Pass, and also make time to visit Schweitzer on Christmas Eve for the annual kids’ balloon parade.   

New Year’s Eve Festivities: Watch (or ski in) the Torchlight Parade at Lookout Pass. Fun begins at 5 p.m. (see participation requirements online). Spokane’s Riverfront Park hosts a New Year’s Pavilion Party from 8 p.m.-midnight.

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After a wildly successful winter in 2018-19, with positive comments pouring into state and city parks according to Ryan Griffith with Spokane Parks & Recreation, plans for this year are set to take off, given the right snow conditions. Benish explains that an 8-inch packed base is ideal for grooming, and that it’s important for riders to use actual fat bikes to avoid damaging the trails. Fat bikes should have tires that are at least 3.6-inches wide and an air pressure of 10 PSI (pounds per square inch) or less. If bikes (or skis, snowshoes, feet, paws, or hooves) are sinking into the trail base more than 1 inch, users should avoid the trail until conditions improve.

This winter Benish estimates there will be nearly 20 miles of biking-specific grooming in Riverside, thanks to Evergreen East, Wheel Sport’s groomer, and a new single-track groomer. But that’s not the only local adventure to tempt cyclists into making their sport last all year. This fall, the Pend Oreille Peddlers purchased a groomer that will be used on beginner to intermediate trails in Pine Street Woods in Sandpoint. Brian Anderson of Greasy Fingers Bikes ‘n Repair says North Idaho boasts a number of shared-use groomed trails at areas like Farragut State Park, Schweitzer Mountain Resort, Western Pleasure Guest Ranch, and Priest Lake State Park.

Dave Dutro, owner of Trail Maniacs and a grooming pioneer in the Spokane/Coeur d’Alene area, says the local interest and investment has increased drastically over the past few years. He’s moved from a dirt rake and snowshoes to a machine that, with support from the Lake City Trail Builders, could groom up to 20 miles in the Canfield Mountain area in 5-6 hours! The Trail Maniacs Foundation is currently raising money for a double-track groomer that would allow for more beginner-friendly trails from the Fernan Lake Trailhead.

And don’t forget about the winter recreation mecca that is Winthrop! Rick Lewis, about to round out 30 years as a ranger with Pearrygin Lake State Park, says fat biking is one more way to get people outside in the winter. The state park has nearly 10 miles of groomed trails and adjacent Methow Wildlife Area has an additional 6.

While fat biking used to be a niche sport with goofy-looking tires and lots of extra layers, those passionate about the sport have worked tirelessly to build infrastructure and support. Every expert interviewed for this article, when asked what they were most excited about for this season, echoed this sentiment: Getting more people out on trails! So this winter layer up, buy or rent a #thiccbike from a local shop or resort, and give it a try. And of course, pray for snow!

While there really is “no bad weather,” all things being equal, Carol Corbin would prefer to use her fat bike on tropical beach sand in January. In lieu of that, though, Riverside State Park is the next best thing!

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• The 130-mile-long Columbia Plateau Trail: The closest access to the non-paved section of this rail trail is near Cheney, Wash. If snow persists on the east end of the trail, try a ride on the 15-mile crushed gravel section starting at Ice Harbor Dam on the Snake River near Pasco, Wash.
• Fishtrap Recreation Area: Explore old ranch roads and several miles of new singletrack still under construction by Washington Trails Association volunteers on the north side of Fishtrap Lake 30-miles west of Spokane.
• Escure Ranch/Towell Falls: Ride the ranch road for a 6.5 mile roundtrip pedal to the falls, then explore some of the other gated roads and bovine-built singletrack north of Rock Creek for added aerobic adventure. (OTO)

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Although I am an avid commuter and recreational cyclist, I have only ridden a fat bike once—and it wasn’t in the snow. So, my biggest question is: with all the winter sports available to us here in the Inland Northwest, why ride a fat bike when the snow flies?

“It’s just plain fun,” says Dave Nelson, one of the three founders of the Northwest Fatbike community on Facebook. “I have never seen someone get on a fat bike and not smile ear-to-ear.”

Mike Gaertner, owner of Vertical Earth bike shop in Coeur d’Alene and the first to sell fat bikes in this area, has seen his fat bike sales double since 2014. “It’s a fun winter activity,” says Gaertner. “You can be an avid skier or snowmobiler on the weekends, but fat biking doesn’t have to be a weekend thing. It can just be a couple hours on a weekday evening, which makes it versatile.”

Jay Davis, a long time Coeur d’Alene resident, rides different bikes during the warmer months, but almost solely pedals his fat bike in the winter. After snow biking for almost three years, he prefers it to snowboarding and skiing. “I’m not an adrenaline junkie,” he says. “The bike is more stable and less nerve-racking than throwing myself down a hill.” He also makes the point that, for some people, making a one-time fat bike purchase is probably more affordable than getting the gear, clothing, lift tickets, passes, and everything else needed to ski or board every season.

How to Get Started

Pretty much every bike shop in the Spokane area and North Idaho now carries or is beginning to demo fat bikes. “There’s a lot more availability,” says Gaertner. The perks of browsing at your local shop are that you can ride before you buy, find the perfect fit and color, and take advantage of the service and community each shop has to offer.

When picking a place to snow bike, start with spots specifically groomed for fatties. If there’s nothing close by, choose an area with snowmobile trails. “Avoid super soft snow,” says Gaertner, “and deep powder that hasn’t been packed.” Instead, look for “packed trails with a corduroy finish, about 84 to 168 inches wide,” says Ryan Griffith, Assistant Parks and Recreation Director in Spokane.

Finally, make sure your tires are 3½ inches or larger, reduce your psi to 10 or lower, and don’t forget to pick up a helmet and a good headlamp. Oh, and pray for snow.

Where to Ride

State Parks and County Trails

Last winter, Farragut State Park began grooming their ski and snowshoe trails to accommodate fat bikes, and there are miles of groomed, multi-use trails around Sandpoint, Lake Pend O’reille, Priest Lake, Round Lake, and other snowmobile, cross-country, and snowshoe areas in North Idaho and Eastern Washington.

Around Spokane, Ryan Griffith plans to coordinate with both Trail Maniacs and Wheelsport, who have both purchased fat-bike specific groomers, to provide more multi-use access to trails around Spokane, including Antoine Peak, Riverside State Park, and the Dwight Merkle Sports Complex. Using their new groomer, the Trail Maniacs plan “on grooming some of the Canfield trails and possibly some of the Empire trails out of Spirit Lake,” says Dave Dutro.

Fat Bike Community Beta

Join a fat bike group and learn the local trails that open up when the snow flies. Or, take a trip to Winthrop, Wash.; Rossland, B.C.; or the Whitefish Bike Retreat in Whitefish, Mont. and meet other riders and explore new trails. Northwest Fatbikes and Idaho Panhandle Fat Bikers have public community pages on Facebook where they post about events and trip ideas too. The Trail Maniacs group frequently updates its website with snow and trail conditions as well as info on riding opportunities.

Bike Shops

Connect with your local bike shops to join weekly rides and get information about events, destinations, and groups. Once the snow falls, Vertical Earth’s Thursday mountain bike rides turn into fat bike rides. Trek Bicycle Store, also in Coeur d’Alene, hosts monthly Full Moon Fat Rides. Ask your bike tech or check each shop’s calendar of events for a group ride happening near you.

Ski Resorts

The five ski resorts in this area are quickly become more fat bike friendly. Although Mt. Spokane only allows fat bikes on snowmobile trails, Lookout, Silver, Schweitzer, and 49 Degrees North have opened up groomed trails and other routes to fat bikes. These four will also be hosting events for fat bike enthusiasts this season. //

Michal Bennett enjoys exploring the food, drink, waterways, mountains, and culture that makes the Inland Northwest unique. Her recent published adventures include a story about her favorite winter hat and a rundown of snow happenings at local ski resorts.

Inland NW Fat Bike Events

Winter Fat Bike Clinic with Jay & Tracey Petervary (Feb. 9-11, Whitefish, MT)

Learn from and ride with winter fat bike riding experts. The Whitefish Bike Retreat near Whitefish, Mont., is hosting Jay and Tracey Petervary, two winter fat biking legends, to share tips, tricks, and knowledge for riding in the snow. There are only 15 spots available for this clinic at the Whitefish Bike Retreat, a beautiful, bike-centric lodging facility with 17-miles of maintained fat biking trails at its door. The clinic is geared for both newcomers wanting to learn more about fat biking as well as long-time riders looking to pick up more advance techniques to ride farther through more difficult terrain. Topics covered will include how to dress, moisture management, tire pressure, how to read the snow, how to handle the bike on the snow, gear suggestions, bike setup, safety and many more topics. The cost for the weekend, including lodging, most meals, and guided rides and instruction, is $550 per person. Learn more or sign up at Whitefishbikeretreat.com.

4^th Annual Fatty Flurry Fest (Jan. 27, Sagle, ID)

Load up your fat bikes and head to Round Lake State Park near Sandpoint for this 4^th annual celebration of winter riding sponsored by Greasy Fingers Bikes N Repair. Free fat bike demos will be offered from 10 a.m.-12:30 p.m., with group rides kicking off at 1 p.m. Greasy Fingers fat bike rentals are available for the group rides (reservations required, call 208.255.4496). Riders must be at least 18 years of age for demos and group rides. Warm up around the bonfire and enjoy refreshments with your fatty-riding pals after the group rides. An Idaho state parking pass is required. Sponsored by Greasy Fingers Bikes N Repair.

Trail Maniacs Snowshoe & Fat Bike Race (Feb. 11, Silver Mountain Resort)

All ability levels are welcome to participate in this fun and challenging race on snowshoes or a fat bike. The 2.2 mile loop course starts at the bottom of Silver’s tubing hill and follows the snowshoe trail with moderate climbing. Choose from two laps (4.4 miles) or four laps (8.8 miles). Helmets and fat bike with a minimum of 4″ wide tires are required. Info: Silvermt.com

Up, Down, Round & Round (Feb. 25, Lookout Pass)

Choose from two laps on a fat bike, two laps on skis or a splitboard, or one lap on skis or splitboard followed by one lap on a fat bike. The fat bike course starts at Lookout’s base area and heads up Grub Stake and then up Huckleberry Ridge. The decision of how far up and where the turn off is will be decided the morning of the race based on weather and snow conditions. The $15 entry fee includes a lunch voucher. More info: Skilookout.com. // (OTM)

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The trail is a fantastic way to see parts of our state that we rarely get to see. Some may call deserts barren wastelands, but if you look closely, you’ll find that all deserts are full of life. Traveling at a bike pace of 10 miles per hour makes it easier to look closely than traveling in a speeding car does. I observed hawks, owls, coyotes, hummingbirds, numerous deer and even two bucks.

The sun-blasted desert landscape is a mix of cropland and scabland used for cattle grazing. The landscape itself changes in subtle ways. East of the Columbia River, the lush Crab Creek is a wonder to behold, even in the hot summer months. The wide, slow-moving creek feeds stands of feathery grasses and wildflowers, and it is a habitat for migrating birds, ducks and herons. To the south, the dramatic Saddle Mountain escarpment rises up like a dragon draped in sand.

The John Wayne Trail is a great way to see some of the rural farming communities scattered throughout central Washington. I rode through hamlets like Smyrna and bigger towns like Othello, Warden, and Lind. Smyrna was busy baling hay, and just outside Othello, I yielded to a convoy of giant combines driving down Highway 26. They honked their horns and waved to me.

After riding in silence on the trail and back roads all day, the noisy, busy highway shocked my senses. Away from highways, there is nothing but wind and light and the crunch of gravel under the tires. I tried not to rush, wanting to appreciate this landscape I so rarely bother to notice. I stopped often to jot notes and take photos.

Yet even on a bike it is possible to get in a rush, and still I rode past places I wished I would’ve stopped and looked more closely at. So on Crab Creek Road (the railroad ties are still present on this section, so you cannot ride the trail) near the end of the escarpment, I got off and walked the bike just to feel the solid ground and take in the haunting stretch on foot. I was exhausted and I’d found that pushing the heavy bike up even the slightest hill effectively conserved my energy when I still had hours left to ride.

With nothing else to do, I rode all day long, usually putting in more than 10 hours per day, riding 60-80 miles a day. I didn’t want to race back home, as I didn’t have anything pressing to get to back to, but it was exceptionally hot out – over 100 degrees. I had been worried about smoke from the record wildfires, but the wind had shifted, and Central Washington was clear of smoke that week.

On the evening of day four, I reached the fabled crossroads, the ghostly intersection of the two former railroads (the Spokane-Portland-Seattle Railroad and the Milwaukee Road). As far as I could tell by the weak signal on Google Maps, I was about 60 miles south of Cheney and half a day’s ride from the town of Lamont. The Columbia Plateau Trail crosses over the John Wayne; the former Milwaukee Road continues all the way to Tekoa on the Idaho border. But here I would hang a left on the CPT and follow the trail north directly to Spokane.

I unloaded the panniers and carefully picked my way up the steep embankment to the overpass. Looking up the trail, I discovered with dismay what looked like miles of the dreaded rail ballast. But this was why I rented a fat bike. Dropping the bags on the rocky trail, I slid back down, hefted the bike on my shoulder, and made my way back up again. At the top I collapsed, breathing heavily and feeling dizzy. I had ridden nearly 14 continuous hours, having left Warden at 6:30 a.m.

I set up my tent on the knobby rock and fired up my camp stove out on the trestle. Nearly out of water, I hesitated before using up the last drops to cook up a celebratory feast of dehydrated Kathmandu curry. On the trail, anything tastes delicious, but the curry ranked as one of the best meals of my life.

The sun was setting a dusty orange and purple as I sat on the trestle, my feet dangling over the edge, the aromatic curry steaming in its foil pouch. I had accidently thrown out my only spoon back in Vantage, so I shoveled the curry into my mouth with a long chunk of ballast rock. Stretched out into the muddled light before me was the trail I had just ridden: the John Wayne Trail. I did it alone, with no support, and I had reached the intersection with the CPT faster than I anticipated, riding through the highest temperatures of the year and with near-constant knee pain. I chewed a mouthful of curry, swallowed, and sighed. As darkness descended over the channeled scablands, I was overwhelmed with an intense satisfaction that brought me to tears. Out there, no one except the coyotes howling in the distance could hear me, and I doubted they cared. Their howls echoed as the sunset faded to a star-pierced sky. A huge meteor sailed across the horizon leaving a wake of blue stardust. I was overwhelmed and humbled by such beauty and solitude.

The next morning I awoke at dawn and broke camp, nervous about the heat and the chunky ballast. Day five was to be the hottest so far: 106 degrees. I was out of water, and riding on the ballast would slow me down. I set out north on the Columbia Plateau Trail just as the sun was about to peek over the eastern horizon. The ballast was shifty, sliding around like plates under my fat tires. The big tires helped stabilize me but it was still slow going. In places the trail surface was nearly overrun with tall sunflower-like plants and tumbleweeds that the fat bike easily plowed over.

This landscape proved to be one of my favorites. Deep channels had been worn into the basalt leaving high plateaus and mesas. Below the raised rail grade were circular ponds rimmed with lush grasses where cattle lounged in the shady bottoms, though some of the ponds had dried up into sandy flats. This was the channeled scablands, and I imagined the ancient Missoula floods raging through here toward the ocean thousands of years ago.

By 10 a.m. I was parched. I kept my mouth closed as the hot air dried my throat. I sucked on a pebble, which seemed to help, but it made my mouth taste like dirt. Then I found a disposable bottle of water lying in the middle of the trail. I reached down and picked it up. Though the seal was open, it looked clear. I smelled it, then tasted it. Satisfied it wasn’t urine or poison, I sent it down the hatch. I figured it had fallen out of someone’s bag, a bit of littering I was eternally thankful for.

A couple hours later I pedaled deliriously into the town of Lamont, only to find I had stumbled upon a modern ghost town. It was deserted. The only store – a mechanic shop – was locked up tight. I pedaled up and down the few residential streets, looking for someone in their yard, but not a single soul appeared. I finally spotted a water pump at the memorably named Bug-Tassel Park behind the little cinder block grange hall. I lifted the handle up and cold water gushed out. I knelt under its stream and let it soak me, rinsing three days of salt, sweat and grit off, this being the first such relief I’d had since Vantage. I filled a bottle and drank half of it in one gulp and then topped off the rest. I drenched my straw sun hat and set it on my head, and then sat on some grass in the shade.

I leaned back and breathed deep. I pondered phoning a friend and getting a ride home. I had no desire to ride ballast in the baking 106-degree heat, and I felt all my energy and drive quickly fading. I had run out of aspirin the night before, and my knees were killing me with every turn of the pedals. There were no more stores until Cheney. Suddenly my phone rang. It was my friend Jonathan. I admitted I was nearly done in, and he encouraged me to soldier on, insisting I was only a few hours from Cheney. He offered to ride out on the CPT and ride back with me.

I knew I would regret it forever if I didn’t complete the journey under my own power. I had come so far, and it would be ridiculous to bail half a day from the finish line. I reminded myself it was a mental game. Jonathan said he’d bring me a sub sandwich, and that sealed the deal. I got back on the saddle, my clothes already almost dry, and set off for the trail, though I ended up riding alongside it on Swift Road, the aptly named jeep track, until the ballast ended near the Martin Road trailhead.

A little while later I saw the “Entering Spokane County” sign, and I noticed the first pine trees I’d seen in 200 miles. Then I saw a figure in the distance, shimmering like a mirage. It was Jonathan. He was the first person I’d seen in three and a half days. We shook hands and he laughed in disbelief. “You just rode from Seattle! That’s so awesome.” “Yeah!” I said, “and I’m freakin’ tired!” We rode on a while, Jonathan peppering me with questions until we reached Amber Lake. We veered off the trail and coasted down to the boat launch and sat down in the shade under a willow. He brought out the sandwich and handed me a blue Powerade, which I guzzled in one gulp. I ate slowly. I had lost 12 pounds in five days, I discovered later – the JWT diet. Then I waded in and swam down to the cold water at the bottom of Amber Lake, rising refreshed and renewed.

The John Wayne Trail will stay with me for the rest of my life – the silence, the wind, the clink of pebbles beneath my tires, and the slow spread of dawn lighting up a vast expanse of desert devoid of people, yet teeming with wildlife even in the heat of August. I didn’t for a moment miss the bustle of city life.

I encourage everyone to summon their true grit and give it a shot. And no matter what, keep pedaling.

Follow Nick on his blog at www.nickoleum.blogspot.com.

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It is the outright sense of community stoke that is palpable in every person you meet, the great collaborations they’ve made to create their Perfect Place on the Planet, and their pride and excitement in sharing it with, well, anyone who wants to come play in their backyard.

Mark Gallup of Fernie Bike Guides greets us in full ride gear and a grin on a Saturday morning. We’re standing inside his shop, which appears to be the raddest grown-up dream come true: literally owning all the kit you could need for any adventure. Then taking other people on their adventures.

Today he’s taking us on a rideventure on the new trail system development that starts about… four feet from downtown. Fernie is known for its skiing and mountain biking, but recently it’s welcomed a new breed of riding into its community planning: fat biking. It is born of the collaborative efforts of the Fernie Trails Alliance, an umbrella organization that works with land owners, developers, and government to plan and develop trails for multipurpose use. What is most evident here is how inclusive those efforts are, how many volunteer hours go into them, and how these trails are the heart blood of the community – whether they are cross-country skiers, mountain bikers, or people walking their dogs.

The snowfall is limited on our early-season ride, but it does not diminish the quality of the trails, obviously built with love. We’ve filled the void of the gap season with fat biking. When mountain biking is over and the ski runs aren’t ready, we’ll still be in the trees with smiles as wide as our tires.

We wind our way into the hills (which is a cute way to refer to the dramatic, jutting Rocky Mountains surrounding us) while Mark explains every inch, connection, and piece of history related to the trails. Every trail has a story, from those named after the granddaughter of a trail-builder extraordinaire (Ruby’s Way), to those that are part of a new housing development (the Montane Trails) that includes a community farm and a historic barn.

We ride out to the new warming hut, donated by some generous outdoor aficionado to the Fernie Trails and Ski Touring Club. It’s Global Fat Bike Day, so we start a fire in anticipation of more riders to come, warm our toes, and soak in the views.

Mark tells his own story. There is something to be said for a town when a legendary photographer who has traveled the entire world and seen all the wonders it has to hold decides that Fernie is the best place to make a home.

On our second day, we play tourists in a town where every shopkeeper and cafe server treats us like old friends. And then, of course, we head over to Fernie Alpine Resort. Its proximity to town makes it perfect for a half-day adventure, but with as many runs and diverse terrain as it offers, let’s be realistic: You’ll be there until the bell rings.

The best part about this home away from home is that it is just over a 3-hour drive from Sandpoint (a tick more for those to the southwest of us). Along the way, you pass Stone Hill in Montana (bring your climbing gear!) and more property porn than you could ever dream of homesteading.

It’s a perfect weekend getaway, and if you’re lucky, you might just find a Canadian to adopt you.

Around Town

Get a guide, borrow a bike, tune your skis, find everything for your adventure needs – The Guide’s Hut and Fernie Bike Guides: These guys know everything there is to know about Fernie, from where you find the best trails to the conditions of the day. Whether you are skiing, climbing, riding, hiking, or looking for a stiff martini, they’ll have the answers and the gear. They also maintain reservations for all the backcountry huts if you’re looking for overnight adventures. Theguideshut.ca and Ferniebikeguides.ca

Breakfast: The Blue Toque Café

This little gem of a cafe, tucked into the Art Station on 1st Avenue, has the most creative, delightful breakfast we’ve enjoyed in a while. Fried kale with bacon and eggs, omelets, gluten-free options, beautiful fresh fruit, and a strong cup of coffee to warm your soul and wake your body. The art on the walls makes for great conversation too.

Post-ride grub: The Brick House

Pub style, only better. And just so you know you’re in Canada, they probably have some curling on the TV too. These guys serve up everything from a wicked sandwich to a dense salad or a slab of steak. Beer and wine, friendly staff, and apparently some pretty good live music in the evenings.

Where to Stay

Fernie has no shortage of hotels, B&Bs, and campgrounds. The Park Place Lodge right off the highway was a perfect location to walk to downtown, access local trails by bike, and scoot over to the ski hill. The Park Place Lodge gets extra points for a super friendly staff, those kind of cozy plush beds you just sink into, and legitimate shower pressure (because really, no one wants to feel like they are getting peed on). Also if you are traveling with kids, they have a great pool and play area, though I’m not sure if it is visible from the cocktail bar. //

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Be sure to follow the rules on Nordic trails that are open to fat biking, including never riding on trails that are not clearly open to fat bikes. Fat bike ruts on Nordic trails are bad for skiers and bad for the fat bike community’s reputation. There is less concern for ruts on snowmobile trails since the machines are largely unaffected by them. Use lights and wear bright color clothing to make yourself more visible on snowmobile trails and yield to the machines. You’ll hear them coming. Here are some of the trails around the greater Inland Northwest where you can expect to enjoy a fun ride on a fat bike if the conditions are right.

Spokane and Coeur d’Alene

Mount Spokane State Park allows fat bikes on the multi-use trails that are open to hikers, snowshoers or snowmobiles. Bikes are not allowed on the Nordic trails or in the alpine ski area. Fitness Fanatics also has a couple Surly Moonlander fat bikes for rent at the Selkirk Lodge at Mount Spokane this winter (Wednesdays through Mondays).

Around Coeur d’Alene, you have many locations in the Idaho Panhandle National Forest. Nearby Canfield Mountain has 25 miles of trails that local riders often keep packed down for fat bikes. There are also snowmobile trails that you can access at 4th of July Pass, the top of Fernan Saddle, and at Hayden Creek.

Sandpoint and Priest Lake

Brian Anderson at Greasy Fingers Bikes and Repair in Sandpoint says they have about 150 miles of groomed snowmobile trails in the area at Trestle Creek, Pack River, and McArthur Lake. Priest Lake is surrounded by over 400 miles of snowmobile trails too. Greasy Fingers rents fat bikes and can offer trail recommendations for these areas. There’s also a trail map at www.switchbacks.com/plsnow/plsnowmap.aspx.

Schweitzer Mountain Resort

All 32 kilometers of Nordic trails at Schweitzer are open to fat bikes. And they rent bikes, which allows you to try before you buy. All riders must have a daily pass or a Nordic season pass. Tires must be wider than 3.7 inches and inflated at no more than 10 psi. They ask you to stay off the trails under any of these circumstances: there are three inches of new snow, you’re leaving a rut deeper than one inch, you can’t ride a straight line, or you need to get off and push the bike. Bikes also must yield to all other users. You can view the complete policy at www.schweitzer.com/mountain/snowbiking/.

Central Washington

The Leavenworth Winter Sports Club recently announced a pilot program for the 2014/2015 season that allows fat bikes on the Nordic and snowshoe trails prior to snow grooming and the opening of the Nordic ski season. Once grooming and skiing is underway, bikes will be limited to designated dates and times. They have night riding on 5 kilometers of lighted trails too. See www.skileavenworth.com/activities/fat-bike for details.

Methow Trails near Winthrop has about 20 kilometers of trails open to fat bikers. As with other locations, you’re required to purchase a ski pass. They have a policy similar to Schweitzer, which you can find along with the current conditions at www.methowtrails.org/winter-trails/fat-bike.

Also in Methow, Joseph Brown, owner of Methow Cycle and Sport, and Steve Mitchell, owner of the Rocking Horse Bakery, joined with the Department of Fish and Wildlife and the Pearrygin State Park to create a volunteer community supporting fat biking trails during the winter. Both state agencies provide equipment to Joe and Steve so they can groom and maintain the trails. (Steve’s history with fat biking dates back to the original days in Alaska.) There are 16 miles of trails at Lloyd Ranch and Pearrygin Park open to bikes. You must have a Discover Pass.

British Columbia

Tyler Merringer at Revolution Bike Shop in Rossland, B.C., reports that the ever increasing fat biking community uses many of the same trails that mountain bikers ride during warmer weather. The severity of the snowfall determines which trails are rideable, but he says you can ride on most days. In Nelson, B.C., Whitewater Ski Resort has opened 5 kilometers of groomed Nordic trails for fat biking. Bike rentals are also available.

Fat Bike Events Around the Region 

At Round Lake State Park near Sandpoint, the first annual Fatty Flurry Festival is taking place on January 31 at 1 p.m. Sponsored by Greasy Fingers Bikes N Repair, the festivities include group rides, free fat bike demos and a barbeque and refreshments around a bonfire. Try biking in the snow, meet other local riders and discover beautiful new places to ride a fat bike. Call for more info: 208-255-4496.

Methow, WA is hosting the Northwest Fatbike Winter Meetup on January 16-18. Facebook.com/events/573115612790617.

On February 1, in conjunction with the Rossland Winter Carnival, Red Mountain Resort is sponsoring a Fat Bike Festival in Rossland, B.C., which will include a 20 kilometer enduro-format race. Redresort.com.

What Conditions are Best for Fat Biking?

Under a lot of conditions, a fat bike provides a smooth, flowing ride in the snow better than a mountain bike. It’s still a workout, but it’s a far more satisfactory workout because there’s less frustration caused by your tires sinking into the snow. Trails that have a base – including snowmobile, approved Nordic, and fat-bike specific trails – provide a better ride than loose snow, but loose snow is not impossible to ride in either. Trails that have been partially packed by snowshoers or hikers can also be a good option. The best groomed trail riding conditions include trails with a firm, compressed base with the temperature below freezing. Riding in deep, wet snow or deep, light powder can be difficult to impossible to ride if it hasn’t been groomed. //

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