My agnosticism towards leashing up man’s best friend abruptly shifted, however, when I experienced first-hand what inevitably happens when dog owners flagrantly disregard leash laws in more crowded public settings. The first incident happened a few years back when I was pinned down by a growling pit bull as I was walking through my own front yard in North Kendall Yards (aka West Central Spokane). Oh, how I wish I had a can of bear spray with me that day.

A year or two more passed, and one day while I was out on a run by the river, I was charged by a sizeable, seemingly free-roaming cur that stopped inches from my leg. I froze and that mut did too, until the apparent owner emerged from the river brush calling happily for their pet. Shaken and fuming, less than five minutes down the trail another off-leash, four-legged menace ran ahead of its owner and lunged in my direction.

I like to think of myself as kind of a pacificist, but by then I was longing for elaborate, pain-inflicting weaponry. Tasers, cross-bows, nunchucks, anything. Meanwhile, the owner casually called in my direction: “He’s friendly!”

Friendly wasn’t the “F” word that growled out of my mouth. And my ire shifted from the apparently affable pup to the delusional, self-absorbed owner who I wanted to punch in the face. Instead I trotted by with fire in my eyes, a racing heart, and a stronger opinion when it comes to leashing dogs.

Since those first close calls with aggressive animals, all within a few blocks of the heavily trafficked Centennial Trail, my family joined the hordes of outdoor enthusiasts in bringing a dog into the family during COVID. She is friendly—95 percent of the time—and her favorite thing in the world is to jump up on any unsuspecting human to express her elation at meeting somebody new, which scares the crap out of anyone with a bit of fear of dogs.

Our dog also either loves other dogs or will randomly attack them for reasons she keeps to herself. So, of course we keep her on a tight leash, even as we frequently encounter other dogs out on popular trails running wild and free with oblivious owners who are in varying degrees of verbal control over their animals.

There really shouldn’t be a dog leash debate in a place like Spokane where there are a ton of people and their pets out walking and biking on public lands, trails, and roads. If you insist on letting your dog run free, make sure it’s out in the boonies away from other people and your buddy stays right by your side.

If doing the right thing isn’t enough of a reason for you to leash up your best friend in urban public places, beware that one day your dog may run up against a much bigger and less-friendly canine rival like that pit bull in my yard, or worse, a more heavily armed and less forgiving human than me.

Derrick Knowles is co-publisher and editor-in-chief.

Find more stories about dogs in the OTO archives.

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Established in 1966, it is one of just 14 geomagnetism observatories the USGS operates worldwide, used to monitor the earth’s magnetic field. The site also contains a seismometer station, an auxiliary seismic station, and an infrasound station. It’s interesting to think about the science being conducted just across the fence from this remote ski and snowshoe trail system. More information about the geomagnetism monitoring program is available on the USGS website, but seeing my locator spin also served to remind me that it’s best to bring a USGS paper map on recreational excursions!

The trail system here consists of a total of 6.2 miles of groomed Nordic ski trails as the primary use, where snowshoe travel is also permitted. It is a non-motorized SnoPark, which means visitors must plan ahead and display either a day-use or seasonal SnoPark permit on their vehicle. SnoPark permits help defray the cost of parking lot snow removal and trail grooming at recreational access sites and are a required pass for many popular ski and snowshoe trails in Washington. A day pass is $20, whereas an annual pass is $40, so I find it makes the most sense to buy the annual and research as many locations as possible to visit for winter trips.

The Geophysical trails connect to form both small and large loops, so it’s possible to create routes in a wide variety of distances, with the outermost loop totaling a little over three miles, and options for connecting with interior trails to extend the distance traveled. The terrain is mostly flat, although there are a few steeper climbs and descents. Snowshoe hikers will find the trails easy, but Nordic skiers may be challenged by the steeper sections, particularly if the trails haven’t been groomed recently or if conditions are icy. The trail signage provides a difficulty rating for each trail, aimed at ski users. Trail names like Flatlander and Chipmunk versus Little Sweat and Rough Ride give visitors an idea of what they might expect from each trail on the system!  Follow Perspiration trail for the best views of the Geophysical Observatory site.

Unlike many groomed Nordic ski areas that have a strict separation between various user groups, the Geophysical trails depend upon different trail users being willing to follow some basic etiquette guidelines to share the trails. The trails are typically groomed once per week when conditions allow throughout the winter, and skiers will likely find the best conditions exist on Fridays and Saturdays following fresh snow. Snowshoe visitors are asked to stay off the groomed ski tracks, which are the set parallel tracks on the edge of the groomed deck. Stepping on the tracks with snowshoes flattens them and makes skiing far more difficult.  

Round-trip Distance: 6.2 miles (total trail mileage)  

Rating: Easy to moderate, depending on snow conditions

Elevation gain: 210 feet

Permit Requirement: SnoPark permit, Dec. 1-March 31

Map: USGS Bead Lake quadrangle

Getting There: 

From US 2 in Newport, travel east over the Pend Oreille River bridge toward Old Town, briefly crossing into Idaho. Immediately after crossing the bridge, turn left on LeClerc Creek Road. Travel 7.5 miles to Indian Creek Road. Turn right and continue 1.5 miles to the Geophysical Trail System. The parking lot is on the left.

Support Local Trails: A series of Wednesday snowshoe work parties will begin on Jan. 15. See wta.org/volunteer.

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The weather forecast called for bad weather later in the evening—rain in the valley, snow in the mountains. But I was eager to run the 36-mile Copper Ridge Loop, a classic North Cascades backpacking route that most people hike over several days. This was possibly my last chance of the season. I checked the forecast, predicted the time it would take given my pace, and decided I had enough time to make it work.

The first miles clipped by. After an hour and 4 miles of running, I was atop Hannegan Pass, the site of an unregulated first-come first-served Forest Service campground. In another mile I passed into North Cascades National Park, and turned left at the junction to ascend Copper Ridge.

I climbed, rising steadily above the trees. From the ridge, I had a 360-degree view of the glacier-carved peaks of the Cascades—Indian Mountain to the east, Hannegan Peak to the west, and the jagged, vertigo-inducing spires of the Pickett Range further to the south. Green forests from the valleys blended into oranges, reds, and yellows up high, where the trees gave way to the fall colors of alpine vegetation—willows, huckleberries, and heather. Above 6000 feet, everything was covered in a thin, frosty film of white.

Atop the ridge I met another runner going the other way, returning from an out-and-back run to the Copper Ridge Lookout. 

“Just taking advantage of the good weather while it lasts!” I said as we crossed paths.

“Hey man, this is it! Last day of the year!” he called back exuberantly.

I passed two backcountry campsites (reserveable in person at one of the park offices) on the ridge before reaching the now-unstaffed lookout cabin at mile 10. 

Now I could see down the Chilliwack River, far into Canada. Jagged mountain peaks surrounded me in all directions. I wanted to linger, but a chilly breeze pushed me onward. I was wearing only a long-sleeved t-shirt and a thin pair of running shorts, so I relied on movement to keep me warm.

My running shoes crunched through crispy patches of snow as I picked my way along the ridge. At 11.4 miles the trail passed Copper Lake, the last campsite on the ridge. As I skirted the east flank of 7142-foot Copper Mountain, I soaked up one last alpine vista before descending 3000 feet to the valley below.

It felt like a different world. I had left the wind-scoured tundra, where hundred-year-old trees might be four feet tall, and entered the land of giants. Old growth firs and cedars, many five feet or more in diameter, stood sentry over the bottomlands. Centuries of fallen timber and rock lay beneath a shaggy carpet of emerald-colored moss.

I forded the river and began the slow ascent back to Hannegan Pass. Near the 24-mile mark, I crossed the Chilliwack on an aerial tramway, pulling myself across the river in a cable car.

Now I was getting tired. The sun was sinking low, and the temperature was dropping. The trail steepened. As I clicked on my headlamp, my pace slowed to a walk.

That’s when the first raindrops began to fall. It started as a light drizzle but soon became a drenching rain. Clearly, I had not beaten the weather.

As I climbed the pass, the rain turned to snow, blowing horizontally in the stiff wind. By the time I crested the pass, I was thoroughly soaked. My hands and ears were numb. I had only four downhill miles to go, but after running 32 miles and ascending nearly 10,000 feet, the task seemed Herculean.

I checked the campsite for backpackers who might be able to help me out, but finding no one I took refuge in the outhouse.

I considered spending the night there. It was sheltered, and I could continue in the morning.

But the temperature was already well below freezing, and I was wet. If a lot of snow fell overnight the trail could become difficult.

I pushed on, summoning my reserves to run the final miles. I moved quickly, aware that I was losing body heat. But I was also wary of injuring myself on the slippery rocks.

It was nearly 9 p.m. before I reached the trailhead. Coincidentally, a pair of climbers were also returning, chatting away as their ice axes clanked against their crampons in the darkness. I tried to call out and let them know I was there, but my voice didn’t carry in the wind and rain.

As I neared one of them, she let out a scream, nearly toppling over with surprise. I mumbled an apology before pushing past the couple to my car.The trail was one of the most visually stunning I’ve ever seen. But next time I think I’ll give myself a few more hours.

Backpacking the Copper Ridge Loop

The Copper Ridge Loop in the North Cascades is a classic backpacking route with epic climbs (over 8,000 feet of elevation gain), mountain lakes and streams, stellar alpine scenery, and even a self-propelled cable car river crossing. The loop can be hiked as a multi-day backpacking trip over several days, or, if you’re short on time or enjoy a good sufferfest, hiked or ran in one long day. 

Round-trip distance:36 miles

Season:July-October

Rating:Difficult

Permits:A backcountry permit, available at a National Park office no more than 24 hours in advance, is required for overnight camping in North Cascades National Park. A Northwest Forest Pass is also necessary for trailhead parking. in person at a National Park office no more than 24 hours in advance.

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One of my absolute favorite spring hikes is the Sinlahekin Wildlife Area. In fact, I return there every year. Just 2.5 miles south of Loomis, Wash, the Sinlahekin Valley is a deep, glaciated canyon with steep rock sidewalls rising from a broad valley floor. This unique valley holds a lot of history and meaning for conservation in Washington. The first sections of the Sinlahekin were acquired in 1939 to protect winter range for mule deer, making it one of the first state-managed wildlife habitat and recreation areas in Washington.

The abundance of wildlife within this intimate valley is incredible; I have been up close and personal with bighorn sheep, deer, bald eagles, forest grouse, and a huge variety of colorful songbird species like the Lazuli bunting. This area is also home to the state’s most diverse butterfly population. Every year I am amazed at the wildflower colors and variety: lupine, bitterroot, penstemon, balsamroot, and scarlet gilia. The challenge in this area is finding the window between spring runoff and the summer’s impending heat. Whenever you choose to explore, the scenery and wildlife diversity will not disappoint.

The winding path running through the center of the valley flirts with several lakes that are ideal for fishing and kayaking. There is even an ADA accessible section of the trail between the refuge headquarters and Connor Lake that leads to an ADA fishing pier. Officially named the Dave Brittell Memorial Trail, the 8-mile out-and-back trail honors a man who worked tirelessly to conserve almost 300,000 acres of fish and wildlife habitat and recreation lands in Washington.

The Dave Brittel Memorial Hike

Every year since 2014 the refuge has hosted the Dave Brittell Memorial Hike on National Trails Day. This year’s event will be hosted on June 1, 2019. Participants make a small donation, and this money goes to a scholarship fund that supports any student studying wildlife ecology at a university in the Pacific Northwest. Anyone who donates receives a t-shirt designed by the Brittell family or friends and is treated to an evening BBQ and campfire. Since the scholarship’s creation, the Brittell family has awarded scholarships to six students attending five different universities, says hike coordinator Steve Pozzanghera.

Dave Brittell spent 18 years as the Assistant Director of the Wildlife Program for the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife. Brittell’s work with Washington’s native cats included more than 200 live captures of cougar, bobcat, and lynx. “Dave’s work was very connected to the Sinlahekin,” says Pozzanghera. “His lynx research in Okanogan County, including the Sinlahekin Valley, changed management of the Department of Natural Resources’ Loomis Forest and U.S. Forest Service land to balance timber harvest with species protection.”

More importantly, adds Pozzanghera, “He was always looking for the best possible conservation outcome by pulling in and engaging his staff, stakeholders, and the public. When Dave engaged you in a conversation it was always about you and your thoughts and ideas—never about his own.”

The trail runs the length of the valley throughout ponderosa pine woodland, wetland areas, and shrub steppe, and is 8 miles out and back. The main road, which runs the length of the valley past Blue Lake in the south, also gives the option of parking a car at either end and doing a 4-mile through hike. A Discover Pass and Refuge Entrance Pass are required.

For more information about the National Trails Day hike, contact Steve Pozzanghera at steve.pozzanghera@dfw.wa.gov. //

Crystal Atamian is a writer and editor in Spokane. She wrote about hiking near water and the benefits of summer day camps in the April issue of Out There.

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Begin by ascending the new singletrack trail on the open grassy hillside just above the parking lot. Hikers will need to cross the cell tower access road, an alternate hiking option that stays in the trees and meets the singletrack again at the top of the first hill. It’s a little under a mile to the intersection with the Emerald Necklace route, and on a clear day the views of the Spokane Valley are superb.

Young hikers will enjoy spying on valley trains from afar, yet within earshot of the piercing train whistle. Arbor Crest Winery is visible from its perch atop a cliff overlooking the ribbon of the Spokane River to the southwest. It’s also easy to spot neighboring conservation areas at the south end of the Spokane Valley, with the towers of Iller Creek/Rocks of Sharon to the southwest and the dome of Mica Peak visible to the southeast.

At the top of the first hill, rejoin the tower access road for a short section to a signed trail junction for the Emerald Necklace. For the easiest hike, turn right at this junction, noting the return route on the left. This section of the hike is along an old roadbed with views of the Spokane Valley and Liberty Lake. While an excellent hike in all seasons, May is an especially nice time to visit due to generally good visibility and peak wildflower blooms within the conservation area.

At approximately the 3-mile mark, hikers will reach the “chicken-foot intersection.” Remain on the Emerald Necklace by proceeding straight ahead, but note the trail on the left leads to the summit of Antoine Peak, whereas the trail on the right leads to the east trailhead.

The north side of the Emerald Necklace is an entirely different ecosystem. Note the lush growth and greater variety of tree and bush species on this wetter side of the mountain. There are fewer views into the distance, but Mount Spokane State Park is prominent from several vantage points along the way.

At approximately the 4.3-mile mark the trail intersects the west side summit trail, an optional extension of this hike for those who would enjoy the view from the top. For the main hike, continue straight ahead and downhill. At about the 4.7 mile mark, hikers will return to the first Emerald Necklace sign. Stay straight and return via the same route you ascended to start the hike. This hike is especially pleasant around sunset, as the hike out faces west for best viewing of evening light over Spokane.

Round-trip distance: 5.7 miles

Rating: Moderate

Elevation gain: 780 feet

Getting there: From the Spokane Valley, travel north on Forker Road to the new Bigelow/Forker interchange. Continue north on Forker and take the first right (east) on Brevier Road. Pass the intersection with Adams Road and continue east on Brevier to the signed Antoine Peak Conservation Area parking lot. Passenger vehicles should use the paved parking spaces at the east end of the lot, saving room for horse trailers along the south side and in the middle.

Support Local Trails: Volunteer with the Washington Trails Association (WTA) for a fun and rewarding way to give back to the places you love to hike. Trails across Washington need our help more than ever. The next WTA work party will be at Fishtrap west of Spokane on May 4 and Antoine Peak on May 15. See www.wta.org/volunteer for more information. //

Holly Weiler is easing back into trail running after a long winter hiatus that included plenty of time spent on skis instead. She writes the Hike of the Month column every month for Out There.

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Typically, I know it’s going to be a good hike if I have to take a gravel road to reach the trailhead. Most of the “trailheads” will be gravel road pull-offs in this area. Swanson Lakes is a quiet, flat area home to many types of northwest desert birds, including native hawks and Sage Grouse. If you’re interested in birdwatching, you may be able to spot Yellow-Headed Blackbirds, Horned Larks, Tree Swallows, Gray Partridges, Western Meadowlarks, Killdeer, or Mountain Bluebirds. Binoculars are a good idea even without the goal of finding birds, as you’ll be able to scope nearby plateaus and choose your own hiking route.

The low elevation gain makes for easy walking, but the lack of a clear trail in most areas makes this an intermediate hike. Swanson Lakes Wildlife Area has approximately 21,000 acres, so you’ll have the freedom to wander widely. Many of those acres are open rangeland, so you may run into the occasional cow pie. Much of the grassland habitat has been restored and is an important refuge for Sharp-Tailed Grouse, so be sure to tread respectfully while hiking. There’s little to no cell phone coverage, which means this hike is refreshingly quiet and tech-devoid. It’s a place to notice the clouds, feel the wind, and listen to bird song.

This hiking area is accessible in early winter when there’s minimal snowfall, boasts regional wildflowers in spring, will be shadeless and hot in summer months, and showcases red, orange and gold brush come fall. There are a few strands of aspen and rimrock lakes, but no potable water, so plan accordingly. You may see coyotes, rabbits, hawks, owls, or rattlesnakes, depending on the season. There are no restrooms other than the vault restroom at the WLA Headquarters, where you can park with a Discover Pass or WDFW Vehicle Access Pass. If you hike in the spring, be sure to cover your skin and wear light clothing to deter ticks and use preventative tick measures for dogs.

If you’re a bit navigationally-challenged, I’d recommend downloading the Swanson Lakes area in the Maps app of your smartphone ahead of time, so the map will work offline in remote areas. The advantage of downloading the map area is that it will still show your location as you move around on the map without cell service. The good news is that almost every point within the Swanson Lakes Wildlife Area is no farther than two miles from a country road. You can also refer to Best Desert Hikes: Washington or contact the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife for more information.

Getting There:

Starting in Creston, WA, turn south onto Swanson Lakes Road when you see grain elevators along Highway 2. Continue as the road changes to Seven Springs Road. Keep to the left at the fork in the road. You’ll find the Department of Fish and Wildlife office one mile from the fork. You can continue along Seven Springs Dairy Road and find other pull-outs that act as trailheads and hike to small lakes, such as Florence Lake. Green WDFW signs will indicate public lands. //

Lisa Laughlin is an Out There Venture Associate Editor. She’s looking forward to spring hiking, gardening, and trail running.

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Spokane County Parks

Spokane County Parks’ Conservation Futures Program tops the list for new recreation opportunities in our region. The county website reflects numbers from the not-so-distant past, 2016, citing 31 acquisitions and 7,700 acres of public land. Flash forward to today and the list has grown to 49 acquisitions totaling over 8,875 acres. Most notable among these is Mica Peak Conservation Area and its new trailhead south of the Spokane Valley, along with an additional parcel that will span the distance from Belmont Road to Liberty Lake Regional Park. Mica Peak had an existing system of old logging roads when Spokane County Parks acquired the property, but that trail network is being augmented by new single track, which begun in 2018 and is still under construction. This summer will find volunteers with Washington Trails Association (WTA) hard at work on a multi-use trail to prominent vistas near the top of the conservation area, while Evergreen East builds a downhill-only flow trail through the middle section of the property. Evergreen is also busy with a new, family-friendly skills park at Beacon Hill, expected to be ready in late spring.         

Other Spokane County Parks additions are so new the trail plans haven’t been written yet. Last spring, the Dishman Hills Conservancy acquired the Flying L Ranch. Eventually the Philips Creek trailhead from this south Spokane Valley property will connect to existing trails at Glenrose; watch for a public planning meeting in early March. More recently, the conservancy acquired property near the Stevens Creek trailhead, which will create new loop options on the lower portion of Rocks of Sharon. The county is also in the process of acquiring an addition to Antoine Peak that will eventually result in the possibility of a third trailhead access point in the Spokane Valley and new trail connections leading to the summit.

Washington State Parks

Mount Spokane State Park also has projects in various stages of the permitting process. The mountain bike community will soon be able to enjoy the upper portion of trail 190, which received the green light for construction in 2018. Evergreen East will be leading the effort to complete this downhill-only trail from the summit to trail 131. WTA projects still a year or two out in the permitting process include a new snowshoe bridge on trail 110 and a new multi-use trail connecting from the lower Mount Kit Carson Loop Road to the Day Mountain trailhead near Greenbluff. Meanwhile, the Inland Northwest Land Conservancy is working in tandem with Riverside State Park to secure a connection between Riverside and Palisades Parks.

Northeast Washington

Although it’s still very early in the planning process, a new trail may be coming to Department of Natural Resources (DNR) property just southwest of Colville. Local volunteers have been working with the DNR to draft a plan that could ultimately result in up to 25 miles of new multi-use single track with views of both the Columbia River to the west and the Colville Valley to the east.

Just north of Newport, the Kalispel Tribe’s Indian Creek Community Forest is set to open to the public later this year. Trailwork on a half-mile interpretive trail is already complete, with additional work planned this spring. A long-term goal of the project is to eventually connect the Community Forest to the nearby Geophysical Trail System for year-round recreational opportunities from its SnoPark lot.

Sandpoint, Idaho

The Kaniksu Land Trust (KLT) is in the process of acquiring the land that will eventually become the Pine Street Woods Community Forest. With a target closing date of late winter 2019, KLT hopes to develop approximately 5 miles of non-motorized trails as early as fall of this year. KLT has a long-term goal of working with the Sandpoint Nordic Club to provide groomed Nordic ski trails on the property.

Also based in Sandpoint, the Trail Mix Committee helped develop the Bonner County Trails Plan, adopted in June 2016. The plan includes a wide variety of multi-use trails throughout the county. A priority project already underway is the Watershed Crest Trail, connecting Baldy Mountain near Schweitzer Mountain Resort to Sandpoint. The local Pend Oreille Pedalers bike club has already begun work on portions of the trail that have been approved, and the Trail Mix Committee is continuing work on the necessary trail easements and permissions to complete the planned 11-mile route.

Just east of Sandpoint, the Friends of the Scotchman Peaks Wilderness are continuing on-going maintenance projects and also beginning survey work in partnership with the Forest Service to reroute portions of the Goat Mountain Trail to improve trail conditions. The group is also continuing its successful Goat Ambassador program, which seeks to protect both recreationists and the area’s iconic mountain goats through trail user education on keeping a safe distance from wildlife.

Coeur d’Alene, Idaho

The Lake City Trail Alliance (LCTA) are embarking on a new private/public partnership to enhance recreational access to Canfield Mountain’s popular trail system through new trail construction on adjacent private property (with the property owner’s blessing). Additionally, LCTA is wrapping up work on a new pump track for the City of Coeur d’Alene, as well as beginning work on a new bike skills area and flow trail near the North Idaho College campus. LCTA will also be working on the Caribou Ridge National Recreation Trail near Mount Coeur d’Alene.

North Idaho

Idaho Trails Association (ITA) is expanding its work throughout the state, with 44 projects planned for 2019 (up from 33 projects in 2018).  ITA’s north Idaho work extends from Priest Lake and Bonner’s Ferry trails to the St. Joe River Area, a new project location for the group.  ITA is also launching a youth volunteer program in 2019.  In addition to general trail maintenance, ITA plans to provide some key reroutes to the Kootenai River Walk Trail near Bonner’s Ferry, as well as installation of a new board walk on the Priest Lake Beach Trail.  

 User Groups & Sharing Trails

The majority of non-motorized trail systems in the Inland Northwest are multi-use. This means that feet, tires, and hooves might be simultaneously sharing the trail. Be a good representative for your favorite activity by knowing the rules that guide multi-use trails.

• Equestrians: Everyone yields trail to equestrian users. Best practice is to start with hello, and then keep talking to make sure the horse knows it’s dealing with a human and not a predator. Dismount if you’re on a bike, and typically move off-trail to the downhill side to allow the horse to pass.
• Bikers: Bike traffic yields to those who are on foot. Best practice is to stop and move to the side.
• Hikers/Runners: For foot traffic, descending yields to ascending. When passing from behind, all users groups should call out to make sure their presence is known.

When enjoying trails with a dog, research the rules before you go. Dogs are not permitted in designated natural areas within state parks. A leash law applies to all Washington State parks as well as all trails within Spokane County. Other areas may allow well-trained dogs to be under voice control. Be prepared to pack out all doggie deposits. //

 Holly Weiler has been sharing the trails since she was 12 but didn’t realize she could build them, too, until she was in her early 20s. Now she’s spent nearly a full year’s worth of days building trails with local nonprofit organizations. She writes the Hike of the Month for each issue of Out There.

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When I did this trip in December 2017, Spokane was in the grips of a temperature inversion that had us suffering through our short winter days in a thick fog the sun couldn’t penetrate. It’s the type of weather I find positively oppressive. Meanwhile, weather reports were indicating a chance to get above the clouds to experience warmer daytime temperatures in the southeast corner of the state. It just so happened that it all coincided with the Geminid meteor shower, which will peak the night of December 13 through the following morning this year.

Begin this hike by crossing a footbridge over a rushing creek and immediately entering the Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness. Bear left and continue uphill at an unmarked intersection with the Turkey Creek Trail at approximately the one-mile mark. The Panjab trail climbs 2,500 feet in nearly 5 miles to the first good campsite at Dusty Camp, just below Indian Corral and the Mount Misery trail. Set up camp here, or else continue to Indian Corral and camp at the nearby Dunlap Springs. Both locations have access to water in the event there isn’t enough snow on the ground to melt for drinking and cooking. After base camp is set up, the high country along the Mount Misery trail offers several options for exploration. Follow Mount Misery south toward Oregon Butte or east toward Diamond Peak. From the Indian Corral junction, the upper portions of the Rattlesnake Trail follow the ridge north to a vantage point overlooking the Tucannon River drainage. Competition for campsites shouldn’t be intense during the winter months, but know that additional campsites are located along all of these trails.

When planning a December backpacking trip, fickle weather will always be a cause for concern. The Panjab trailhead was accessible in December last year, but this year’s conditions could be different. The Tucannon River Road is plowed to the end of the pavement, which is a little over two miles from the Panjab trailhead. It’s also possible to access the Rattlesnake Trail from the Panjab campground at the end of maintained road. The main difficulty with this option is that there is no footbridge over the creek at this location. Sometimes a fallen log can be used to cross, or hikers can wade across. It makes for a cold start to a December trip, but is a good alternative in case snow prevents access to the upper trailhead.

Snowshoes may be necessary in the higher sections of the trail, and the lower portion of the trail could have icy sections that would require either snowshoes or microspikes. A good way to assess possible snow depth in the high country is to check the closest SnoTel site at Spruce Springs, or to check the snow data for nearby Bluewood Ski Area. Please remember that blue bags/wag bags are necessary for winter camping trips, since the ground will likely be frozen or covered in snow.

Prefer to day hike this trip and stay in a nearby historic cabin? See the “Four Winter Cabin Trips” article in the February 2018 issue of Out There online for a description of the nearby Tucannon Guard Station, which is available for year-round rental through Recreation.gov.

Round-trip Distance: 10 miles round trip and 2,500 feet elevation gain, with options for additional hikes from camp.

Rating: Moderate to difficult

Maps:

U.S. Forest Service map: Umatilla National Forest, Pomeroy Ranger District including the Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness, 2013

USGS maps: Panjab Creek

Getting There: From Spokane, take US 195 south to Colfax. Travel west on WA 26 for 16.6 miles to Dusty, then travel south on WA 127 for 27 miles to the junction with US 12. Travel east on US 12 for 8 miles to Tatman Mountain Road. Continue on Tatman Mountain Road to Linville Gulch, then Blind Grade Road. At the intersection with the Tucannon River Road, turn left and follow the Tucannon River upsteam to Forest Service Road 47. When the pavement ends at FS 4713, bear right and continue 2.4 miles to the Panjab trailhead. Northwest Forest Pass required. //

Holly Weiler is the eastern region coordinator for Washington Trails Association. She writes the Hike of the Month column in every issue of Out There.

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The Palouse: Kamiak Butte, Moscow Mountain, and Merry Cellars

The Hike: The Palouse is beautiful any time of year, but it shines in autumn when the fields have been cut and the rolling hills go for miles under a late-summer sun. Throughout these hills are stands of pine trees, and in those pines there are often trails, as with Kamiak Butte just outside of Pullman, Wash. Named after Chief Kamiakin of the Yakama tribe, this area is recognized as a National Natural Landmark and is worth the trek. It’s an easy walk to the top, as the main trail is a well-maintained path with a few switchbacks. When you reach the butte, you’ll be able to choose from several trails, such as Pine Ridge Trail, to weave your way along open vistas.

You can visit whitmancounty.org for a self-guiding nature walk brochure to learn about how this seemingly random group of pines came about. For a more challenging hike, trail run, or mountain bike session, drive 25 miles west and hit Headwaters Trail on Moscow Mountain. This hike will have fewer Palouse peek-a-boo viewpoints, but you’ll get a breath of fresh autumn air in the old growth cedars and soft singletrack trail making a 3.7-mile loop. Moose, bear, and cougar can be spotted here, so take appropriate precautions.

The Wine: Merry Cellars Winery is tucked up behind the Schweitzer Engineering Laboratories in Pullman, Wash. Housed in similar warehouse-style digs, the tasting room is a warmly-lit place with an expansive deck. Enjoy a glass of syrah, malbec, or Crimson, the winery’s Coug-themed red wine blend consisting primarily of Cabernet Franc. With a variety of red and white wines on tap and in bottles, you’ll be able to sample the gamut for a $10 tasting fee. From the tasting room, head to the outdoor patio to sip your glass among a small row of grapes tucked into the rolling hills.

Columbia Valley: Ancient Lakes Trail System and Chris Daniel Winery

The Hike: In central Washington, you can bank on sagebrush, basalt, and open, breezy views of the clouds rolling across the horizon. This primarily treeless location still has brush that flushes with the colors of fall, and the open expanse makes it easy to spot groups of white-tailed deer. The Missoula floods carved this area, so you can enjoy poking along basins and plateaus, and hunting for quartz, flint, jasper, or agates. While there are a small series of lakes and a desert waterfall, you should carry your own drinking water on this hike. The Ancient Lakes Loop connects with Potholes Trail, Dusty Lake Trail, and the Gorge Amphitheatre Trail, which offer stunning views of the Columbia River. Also in the area: rock climbing or hiking in the Frenchman Coulee near Vantage, mountain biking on Beezley Hill, and hiking on Monument Hill or in the Lenore Caves area.

The Wine: Chris Daniel Winery is kid- and dog-friendly. With a dry, French-style viognier, a rosé blend of Bordeaux grapes, and other beautifully bold Columbia Valley wines like a petit sirah/syrah, Chris Daniel will continue the adventure via your taste buds. There’s indoor and outdoor seating at this rural winery that abuts the flat farmland of central Washington. You’ll want to bring your own picnic-style foods to wineries in this area. There’s a network of great wineries here, including Beaumont Cellars (another rural gem tucked along an apple orchard), Cave B, Jones Winery, and wineries to the south of Vantage bridge that lead toward the Wahluke Slope.

Central Cascades: Mission Ridge, Palisades, and Chateau Faire le Pont

The Hike: A well-known ski area in winter, Mission Ridge has some great fall hiking options. You’ll find plenty of singletrack and elevation through the pines, made special this time of year when the western larch turn gold. You can clock miles on Devil’s Gulch trail, which includes various creek crossings and switchbacks up the side of Mission Ridge, or make a four-mile loop on Squilchuck Trail #1200 and stopover at Clara Lake. Visit Pybus Public Market before your hike to snag some fresh apples and artisan meats and cheeses to take on the trail. Consider walking through the public spaces of the nearby Palisades canyon for an away-from-it-all feeling among towering basalt plateaus.

The Wine: Chateau Faire le Pont has full-varietal grenache, carménère, and petit verdot, along with some tantalizing white wines and red wine blends. The quaint tasting room houses a restaurant with full lunch and dinner menus, making it a great post-hike stop. You can find anything from a locally-sourced tenderloin salad to a Columbia River steelhead entrée. After a chilly fall hike, try a cup of the French Onion soup with a glass of tempranillo. Make it a day by visiting nearby Martin Scott Winery, which has a great view of the surrounding Wenatchee hills and river.

North Cascades: Chelan Butte, Lake Chelan-Sawtooth Wilderness, and Local Wineries

The Hike: For a hike that’s close to town and looks over Lake Chelan, check out Chelan Butte. It’s a little over 7 miles round-trip, and you’ll gain 2,500 feet over this exposed terrain. If you’re searching for trees and alpine lakes, there’s plenty of neighboring backcountry options to explore in the Lake Chelan-Sawtooth Wilderness. You can even ride the Lady of the Lake passenger ferry up Lake Chelan, where it will drop you off at various hike-in trails, like Prince Creek; or, visit Stehekin, a community accessible only by water, float plane, or mountain trails. Hike the backcountry, then catch the ferry back and explore the wineries. Take note that the high-elevation destinations (think 7,000 feet plus) will feel more like winter than fall this time of year. Check Ladyofthelake.com for ferry schedules in the off-season.

The Wine: You’ll have many wineries and tasting rooms to choose from in the Lake Chelan area. Visit Karma Vineyards, Nefarious Cellars, and Fielding Hills Winery tasting rooms for lakeside views. Lakechelanwinevalley.com will have a full list. Near Manson, a small town along Lake Chelan with eight tasting rooms, there is the fun and notable Winegirl Wines.

Central Washington: Richland, Red Mountain, and Horse Heaven Hills

The Hike: If you know your Washington wines, you’ll know that Horse Heaven Hills is a popular AVA (American Viticultural Area). Turns out, it’s also a nice place to hike. You can go nearly seven miles on this open-vista plateau just south of Benton city. It’s only one of several hikes in the expansive scrub brush around the greater Tri-Cities area. Check out the Rattlesnake Slope Wildlife Area, Badger Mountain, or the Juniper Dunes Wilderness for hiking with a view of local wine country.

The Wine: If you’re in western Richland, be sure to visit Tulip Lane—it’s home to three wineries within walking distance, including the award-winning Barnard Griffin Winery (try their rosé of sangiovese). If you hike on Badger Mountain, you’ll have easy access to Badger Mountain Vineyard & Powers Winery, with a chill tasting room that will let you peruse the vineyard rows. Goose Ridge Estate is another must-try with its notable wines, seasonal ciders, and rural-feeling outdoor seating area. Be sure to spend an afternoon exploring the many wineries on nearby Red Mountain to sample wines from one of the most unique AVAs in the state. //

Lisa Laughlin is a runner and backpacker. She grew up on a wheat farm in central Washington and loves Washington wines. She wrote about rollerblading in the August issue of Out There.

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