By Vince Hempsall

There aren’t too many places in North America where you can enjoy a bike ride in the morning, visit a winery in the afternoon, fish for trout in the evening and cap the day off with a visit to a natural hot spring, all within a 10-mile radius. Located in southern British Columbia, an easy three-hour drive from Spokane, Washington, the Arrow Lakes region is the perfect autumn road trip because of its incredible bounty, both in food and activities, with everything in easy driving distance. 

From its northern end near the village of Nakusp, which boasts two nearby hot spring resorts, to the southern end near the Canadian/American border just south of the city of Castlegar, the 100-mile-long Arrow Lakes region is connected by a quiet highway that winds its way through beautiful valleys in the Selkirk mountain range. The road follows alongside the large waterways of Slocan Lake and the Arrow Lakes system, which are connected by the Columbia and Kootenay Rivers and pass through five provincial parks and other swaths of stunning wilderness. In between are quaint communities featuring inns, hotels, B&Bs, campsites and cabins, with access to backcountry lodges. Below are some itineraries that highlight the autumn bounty of the Arrow Lakes region.

Locally grown Fall fare

The fertile lands of the Slocan Valley and Arrow Lakes attracted pioneers to the area a century ago and small-scale farming traditions continue here. There are now about 40 farms and food producers located in the Slocan Valley alone and their offerings are available at road-side stands and farmer’s markets throughout the autumn months.

To wash down your fresh food findings, there are makers of every kind of craft beverage in the Arrow Lakes region. Start your tour in Castlegar with a visit to Tailout Brewing, which offers a variety of beers made on site as well as a spacious setting and custom art reflecting the staff’s love of fishing. The next stop is Tonik Distillery in the southern Slocan Valley, famous for its flavored vodkas and “Old Tom” gin. At the northern end of the valley is the appropriately-named Valley of the Springs Winery. Lounge in their tasting room or by the outdoor fireplace, take in views of the surrounding mountains and enjoy a bottle of red, white or rose, all made on site. If your taste buds prefer something a little more tart, visit the nearby Burton City Cider. Located on a 30-acre farm with sheep, chickens, a llama, and an orchard, the family-run business offers pizza nights and lunches, with a variety of made-on-site ciders on tap.

Once you’ve gotten your food fix, it’s time for some active fun. The Arrow Lakes region specializes in all forms of outdoor enjoyment from the human-powered, like hiking and biking, to motorized experiences such as ATVing and boating.

Fish your way through the region

Hire a Castlegar guide to show you the secret fishing holes on the Columbia River or Lower Arrow Lake where you’ll find some of the largest kokanee salmon in the world, as well as rainbow trout and walleye. Or cast your line into any other river or lake in the Slocan Valley, including Summit Lake and the stocked Box Lake, both perfect for family outings. The northern end of Arrow Lakes is popular for its quiet spots to fish from a boat launched at the Nakusp Marina.

Bike the many trail networks

If dry land is more your preference, there are innumerable hiking and biking trails in the area. For example, between the two resorts of Halcyon Hot Springs and Nakusp Hot Springs, you’ll find the Mt. Abriel Recreation Area, a lakeside campsite at the foot of a mountain biking zone that now includes more than 60 trails ranging from beginner to expert. Further south in the valley are many converted railway beds which are perfect for bikers and walkers looking for mellower terrain with monumental views. Closer to Castlegar, another former rail bed, the C&W Trail, runs alongside Lower Arrow Lake and through tunnels before veering south and west for 95 miles. Castlegar’s Merry Creek and Rialto mountain bike trail networks are also popular with riders of all levels and age groups.

Hikes for any type of adventurer

Hiking is a popular autumn pastime in this region because the larch trees turn yellow and the alpine slopes become canvases of every shade of green and gold. There are many places throughout the Slocan Valley where you can hike high into the mountains, but for trails closer to the road, there are seven excellent ones near Nakusp Hot Springs ranging in length from 0.5 to 5 miles. Another family-friendly outing is the Yellow Pine Nature Trail in Syringa Provincial Park near Castlegar that offers views of Arrow Lake from a terraced hillside. In fact, the region’s five provincial parks boast everything from beautiful waterfalls, rock climbing cliffs, lakeside camping spots, as well as plenty of wildlife, from bighorn sheep and elk to bufflehead ducks and ospreys. 

Find more travel stories about Canada in the OTO archives.

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It’s now time to enjoy those bits of the great outdoors that have been off limits. And what better place to bust out again than Rossland, British Columbia, the capital of Canadian mountain biking less than three hours north of Spokane?

In-Town Epic Riding

According to Caroline Rousselle, one of the owners of Revolution Cycles in Rossland (a must visit!), what makes Rossland befitting its status as Canada’s mountain biking capital is the wide variety of trails that are accessible directly from town, no car required. Anyone enjoying these trails has the Kootenay Columbia Trail Society (KCTS) that built and maintains them to thank.

The trails, says Rousselle, as described on the Trailforks app, are accurately labeled. When there’s a black diamond, you better not overestimate your abilities or fitness.

If you are looking for something Rouselle describes as a “bit more flowy,” then the blue-square intermediate trails are for you. That means, if you want to tackle the local epic Seven Summits, you need to be fit and capable. It may well contain the toughest 30 kilometers (18 miles) you’ll ride, with more than 4,500 feet of climbing.

Bring all the food and drink you’ll need for the average five hours it takes to complete. The Trailforks rating for the Seven Summits is “extreme.” And they mean it.

Along with a great trail system, Rossland has become a leader in adaptive mountain biking, providing a welcoming space for athletes who have suffered spinal cord injuries that would otherwise keep them from cycling. Similarly, every trail but the Seven Summits, due to the delicate trail surface and ecology, is open to Class 1 eBikes.

New Trails & Amenities Open along with the Border

So what’s happened in and around Rossland since the COVID-19 border closure? Stewart Spooner, operations manager for KCTS, says “We’ve had quite a few developments in the past couple of years.”

The Millennial Trail Expansion opened in 2020, adding 5.8K of trails at the base of Red Mountain with advanced, intermediate, and novice climbing and cross-country terrain and connections to Paydirt trails. Another new trail is the machine-built, bermed, and jump-filled Dragontail, adding a bike-park experience, though without lift access.

Spooner says that KCTS has also created an entirely off-road loop of trails connecting the Larch Ridge trail network, including the popular Monticola trail. KCTS is also developing the new Mxiɬp Xewílh (Cedar Trail), an 18K moderate trail connecting Nancy Green Pass to the Larch Ridge Trail network and RED Mountain Resort. The lower section will open mid-summer 2022, with the entire trail ready for Spring 2023. That’s lots of new terrain for those who have previously ridden the Rossland area.

It’s not just that trail system that has grown in Rossland since the border closure. Kylie Lakevold of Tourism Rossland reports that “during the pandemic more new businesses opened versus closed.”

New restaurants include Rossberry Hill Bistro at RED Mountain Resort and The Underbelly Bistro downtown. There’s a new chef at The Velvet Restaurant too. Shopping has expanded, there are new and expanded art options, and lodging has improved with renovations at The Wild Turkey and The Flying Steamshovel inns.

When to Go

Rossland’s elevation of 3,356 feet means warm weather begins in late-May and many trails can hold snow in places through June. The subalpine Seven Summits doesn’t typically open until early July, closing in late October.

Most trails receive regular maintenance one the snow melts and the trails dry out, but it’s always worth a call up to Revolution Cycles in Rossland for a trail update.

Find more stories about Rossland, B.C., in the OTO archives.

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RED Mountain Resort, located in the Kootenay region of Canada, is well known for its location on the powder highway in winter; it should also be noted as a summer recreation destination, with single track, wildflowers, and epic views for bikers, trail runners, and hikers. 

This summer, RED Mountain is launching two stay-over camp events so adventurers from around the world can stay on the mountain and receive coaching and first-hand experience with trail running or mountain biking. The trail running camp, called “Making the Grade,” is for adult runners, while the mountain biking camp, called “Switchback!” is exclusively for youth ages 12-18. 

If you’re coming from the states, the exchange rate will be in your favor for traveling. After the camp, explore all the wine tasting, hiking, fishing, and other outdoor recreation that the Kootenay region has to offer. With a drive that’s less than 3 hours from Spokane, RED Mountain may just become your new favorite summer destination. 

“Making the Grade” Adult Alpine Running Camp

Run through picture-perfect mountains deep in the beautiful Kootenays and work on your times and technique at RED’s adult alpine running camp, held from June 21-24, 2019, in Rossland, B.C. Pro Coach Rene Unser will combine the best terrain, coaching, and structure from P.A.C.E. Sports Fitness to take intermediate and advanced runners to a new level. 

The camp offers both short and long distances to choose from every day to suit different goals and fitness levels. The short distance group will cover approximately 60K over four days, with daily distances in the 10-25K range. One day of the camp the group will be running the 25K Broken Goat course, so participants need to be trained to cover this distance. The long distance group will cover approximately 85-95K over four days, with the first evening run between 10-12K run and the next three days varying from 25-35K. 

The all-inclusive camp registration includes high-quality food, afternoon yoga sessions, training and workshops, three nights at the Nowhere Special hostel, socials, swag, and more. It’s the perfect (beautiful) place to up your trail running game and relax!

“Switchback!” Youth Mountain Biking Camp

The trails around Rossland and RED Mountain Resort get so much attention for a reason: epic cross-country trails rich with natural and man-made features; burly freeride descents; and incredible Kootenay scenery abound. Now is your chance to introduce solid riders ages 12-18 of any gender to this world-class mountain biking wonder only a couple hours north of Spokane. 

RED’s Switchback! Mountain Bike Camp, July 7-12, is for experienced riders looking to push themselves in a fun, supportive environment for five days of cross-country and downhill mountain biking. This all-inclusive, fully immersive camp will have riders climbing harder, descending faster, and managing technical sections like a boss.

The home-grown instructors are as world-class as the trails. Dane Tudor is one of the world’s elite freeskiers and mountain bikers, and Mike Hopkins is an athlete, producer, director, and globetrotter who began as a professional big mountain skier before moving into the world of mountain biking, having now competed in six Red Bull Rampages.

Camp registration includes six days of coaching and riding, killer meals and snacks, a pro photographer capturing all the action, six nights of lodging at RED’s new Nowhere Special hostel, evening activities, and swag. Americans can expect to save around 25% off the $1,495 Canadian price tag thanks to the current exchange rate in our favor. RED is also offering special lodging deals for parents at the Slalom Creek condo or new Josie Hotel, so no need to let the kids have all the fun. Space is limited to 30 riders and may sell out before the June 29 registration deadline.

Watch this Video to learn more and get a sneak peak of the Red Mountain vibe and beautiful trail!

(Sponsored Content)

Find more stories about Rossland, B.C., in the OTO archives.

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Contrary to the hardcore, Seven Summits image that may come to mind, Rossland has a diversity of beginner, intermediate and advanced trails that opens up opportunities for mixed groups of riders with differing ability levels to enjoy a mountain bike trip together knowing that they can split up or ride together.

The famed Seven Summits Trail, the 22-mile-long IMBA Epic that most people think of when they think of Rossland, is just the tip of the local riding iceberg. Which means that the vast majority of trails, well over 100 miles worth, are mostly lesser-known, highly rated trails that locals and visitors from around the world rave about.

Visit the local bike shop, Revolution Cycles, for a map and trail recommendations. Rossland has a super friendly and helpful bike community, which includes a number of services directed towards out-of-towners, from shuttling to bike coaching, tours and clinics that are designed to orient riders to the vast local trail network and help them build skills to match the terrain.

Mountain Bike Shuttles

Traditionally, most shuttle requests around Rossland have been for the Seven Summits Trail; however, if you take the time to talk with the guides at Kootenay Mountain Biking, they will turn you on to many other lesser-known, and, some would say, more fun trails that locals and a growing number of visitors shuttle on a regular basis.

For the latest information on bike shuttles, tours, and lessons, visit the Kootenay Gateway website.

Ladies Mountain Bike Weekend (June 13-14, 2015)

Join the super friendly and knowledgeable people at Kootenay Mountain Bike Coaching and BettyGoHard for a two-day women’s mountain bike weekend that focuses on building bike skills and confidence. The camp includes shuttle-assisted, coached rides combined with skill practice to help dial in your biking.

BettyGoHard, a women’s progressive action sports community, is focused on taking the intimidation out of outdoor sports and inspiring women to push their limits. “We have a unique understanding of the fears and obstacles that women face when taking on new challenges as we are women and men that have faced our own fears and obstacles,” says co-owner and head coach Natasha Lockey.

Both Natasha and her husband Ian Lockey bring unique experiences to their work. Ian is a standing paraplegic who competed in Sochi as part of the Canadian National Para-Snowboard Team. His experiences make him well-positioned to break things down from both a physical and mental perspective, enabling riders in their clinics to push through frustrations and succeed. Cost is $265 (Canadian).

They also offer custom clinic packages for four or more women if you can’t make the weekend of June 13-14, 2015, and want to set something up for you and your friends. More info: Kootenaymountainbiking.com.

Private MTB Lessons for Men, Women, Groups and Couples

Mountain biking is great fun, and the better you are, the more fun it is. Private lessons help build confidence, increase skills and reduce fears. “The best athletes in the world have coaches,” says Natasha Lockey. “We all have differing levels of skills and develop differently, and as we improve we will pick up some great skills and some not so great skills. Doing the same thing badly over and over is not going to make you better. You will just be better at doing it badly.”

For beginners, a lesson can help avoid many of the most common mistakes and bad habits that a lot of bikers have, she says. Lessons also help new riders get their body position and balance set up right and assist with a firm understanding of gears and brakes and how to use them efficiently.

Private lessons can also be great for couples and helps avoid uncomfortable situations where one rider in the relationship is trying to teach the other and give advice.

For experienced riders, lessons can be a great way to get past the plateau, become stronger, be more efficient and have more fun, she says. “Fine tuning the small skills and having an expert set of eyes will enable you to get closer to riding like a pro, and the pros always look like they are having so much fun!”

Ladies Yoga and Biking Retreat (September 12-13, 2015)

This weekend for intermediate to advanced riders includes mountain biking, yoga, great food, good company and fantastic Rossland trails. “We will spend the weekend balancing between building your confidence and skills on the bike with the flow of your yoga practice,” says Natasha. From beginner to seasoned yogis, everyone will benefit from these sessions, she says.

More info: Kootenaymountainbiking.com.

Find more stories about Rossland, B.C., in the OTO archives.

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