Day 1: Fat Bike and Stay at Whitefish Bike Retreat

Enjoy the spacious seats on the Amtrak train overnight and arrive at the historic downtown Whitefish train station early on day one. If you book with Dollar Rental, a representative will have the car warmed and ready. Drive to Whitefish Bike Retreat (WBR), where owner Cricket Butler can set you up with beautiful lodging and perfectly fit fat-tire bike. Although on-site groomed trails are limited this winter due to timber harvesting, Butler’s knowledge of all things bike and trails make the lodge worth a visit. “I don’t believe bigger is better. I believe in quality,” she says. In all of her roles, from shuttle driver to owner to bike technician, this commitment stands out—so much so that guests who aren’t bike enthusiasts will also love the WBR experience. 

At the heart of WBR is its lodge; its simplicity shows off the rugged Montana style. With access to a beautiful and generously allocated kitchen, cozy living area, luxurious bathroom for hot showers, and long tables for spreading out maps or sharing a meal, it’s the perfect home base for couples or groups of friends. Winter season includes reduced rates and a wood-fired sauna. For people who prefer not to dirty their hands in the kitchen, drive back to town to Pescado Blanco and enjoy a mountain-town twist on Mexican favorites.  

Day 2: Cross-county Ski at Glacier National Park and Stay at The Lodge at Whitefish Lake

Head back into town for breakfast at Swift Creek Café before picking up ski rentals. Glacier Cyclery & Nordic will have you fully kitted out for a day of cross-country skiing in Glacier National Park. The knowledgeable staff can also recommend an itinerary. With the Going to the Sun Road closed for winter, the winding, scenic pavement turns into a human-powered dreamscape. A good introduction to cross-country skiing in the park is a leisurely glide to Lake McDonald. 

From Whitefish, drive 25 miles to the west entrance of Glacier National Park. Follow signs for Apgar, but be sure to stop at the foot of Lake McDonald to take in the view. Continue to the parking area at Lake McDonald Lodge and ski out and back on the Going to the Sun road. Be sure to pack plenty of snacks, water, layers in case the weather changes, and binoculars for wildlife sightings. 

Drive back to town and check-in at The Lodge at Whitefish Lake, which is an approved drop-off location for Dollar Rental. Take the S.N.O.W Bus into town for dinner at Wasabi Sushi Bar & Ginger Grill. Ask your server to recommend sake pairings for every course, and start with the Hamachi carpaccio— a thin veil of fresh yellowtail with hot curry oil, avocado, tobiko, chives and tare sauce. From there, take your meal in any direction, from Nigiri to Sashimi to inspired fusion roles. 

Day 3-4: Ski, Snowboard, Snowshoe, and Relax at Whitefish Mountain Resort

After watching the sunrise from the lake-side hot tub at The Lodge at Whitefish Lake, catch a free ride up to Whitefish Mountain Resort on the S.N.O.W. bus, which runs approximately on the half hour from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Great deals on winter ski and stay packages, consistently epic snow, and 11 speedy chairs that cover 3,000 acres of groomed runs and playful terrain—those are just a few of the reason why Whitefish is a must-visit resort this winter. Kate Atha, the assistant ski patrol manager, offers a behind the scenes glimpse of what else makes the resort special. 

In an industry where male patrollers are still the industry standard, Whitefish stands out in that close to half of its patrollers are women—and, coincidentally, fully half of the dogs in the patrol’s K-9 unit are female. Atha has co-led challenging rescue scenarios, like extracting a skier with a broken femur from the trees and safely lowering 140 guests from a chairlift with mechanical issues. “Anything that could happen in day to day life could happen here,” Atha notes. Anything and then some. 

It’s liberating to know you’re in such good hands when exploring epic terrain. Skiers looking for a challenge should try Atha’s favorite linkup: Elephants Graveyard to lower No Name to Haskill Chute. As for a favorite, all-level option? “If I have to pick one run, it’s definitely Inspiration. It’s a 2,000-foot vertical run with the best views of the area,” she notes.

Travelers on a budget should check out the resort’s Hibernation House, which includes hot, home-cooked breakfast and a hot tub. The Bierstube on the mountain offers pub fare and sightings of your favorite resort staff and patrollers.After two full days of charging, take the S.N.O.W. bus back to town and be ready to snooze in the spacious Amtrak seats the whole way home. Grab one last bite at Craggy Range, a Whitefish classic, while you wait for your train to roll in. Keep an eye on the online train tracker. If an act of god delays your train on its way from Chicago, consider it a sign from the heavens that you should order another round and raise a glass to your epic long-weekend adventure. 

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Recreation destinations and outdoor highlights are paired with select wineries and estate vineyards, notable for their scenic locations and on-site amenities. Look for future guides covering other wine grape growing regions throughout the Northwest in future issues of “Out There.” Load up your bikes and boots or pack your paddling gear for a vine-to-wine road-trip adventure with wine-tasting rest stops.

SPOKANE COUNTY

Arbor Crest Wine Cellars

The Cliff House and tasting room at Arbor Crest’s winery in Spokane Valley not only boasts scenic views of the Spokane River below, it’s also a great cycling destination close to the Centennial Trail. You can depart the trail at the East Moringo Drive Trailhead, to the west of the winery, or Islands trailhead to the east—which is closest to Upriver Road’s intersection with Fruit Hill Road and the one-mile climb to the winery.

Winemaker Jim van Loben Sels says, “We own the land all the way to the trailhead, so someday I want to connect to the Centennial Trail so people can ride or hike right up to our winery.” The winery hosts outdoor summer concerts from May through the end of September, starting with TulipFest to showcase the more than 7,000 tulips on its spacious grounds. Arbor Crest’s tasting room in downtown Spokane’s Cork District is now located inside the Davenport Hotel.

Latah Creek Wine Cellars

Located less than a mile from the Centennial Trail in Spokane Valley, instead of driving to the tasting room, pedal or power-walk your way there. Leave the trail near Mirabeau Point Park—consult a trail map to choose your trailhead exit and proceed south on city streets to the winery.

Townshend Cellars

Located in Green Bluff, enjoy a view of Mt. Spokane at the tasting room after cycling along the country roads of this farming community. Or stop here after hiking or mountain biking at Mt. Spokane State Park.

Downtown Cork District

With 14 tasting rooms, it’s easy to pair wine tasting with urban recreation, whether it’s cycling on the Centennial Trail or paddling the Spokane River. (See article about biking the Cork District)

COLUMBIA VALLEY

This “macro” AVA region is the largest one in Washington and encompasses all the other smaller, regional AVAs, including the Ancient Lakes AVA—a newer wine-growing region that includes Quincy, Moses Lake, and Lake Roosevelt.

QUINCY & GRAND COULEE—Outdoor Recreation Highlights

This channeled scabland area, with fascinating geographical and historical sites, is ideal for rock climbing, hiking, paddling, and mountain biking. Popular destinations are Frenchman Coulee near Vantage; Lake Lenore Caves; Beezley Hills Preserve and Monument Hill, near Ephrata; and Drumheller Channels National Natural Landmark, near Othello (IAFI.org). The Washington Trails Association’s website, WTA.org, is the best resource for trailhead driving directions and hike descriptions. For local paddling, boating, and fishing, visit Crescent Bar Recreation Area or Wanapum Recreational Area along the Columbia River.

Cave B Estate Winery

Neighboring the Gorge Amphitheater, this winery and vineyard boasts panoramic views of the Columbia River. In fact, the Bryan family originally conceived of music concerts in the “little gorge” bowl—what was once called the Champs de Brionne Summer Music Theater. Today, Cave B’s tasting room hosts “Music & Wine in the Vines” during the summer. Cave B Inn & Spa Resort (no longer owned by the winery) has rooms, “glamping” yurts, hiking and mountain biking trails down to the riverbank, and an outdoor pool. 

White Heron Cellars & Mariposa Vineyards

Overlooking the Columbia River and Crescent Bar Resort, visitors are welcome to picnic on the grounds and play outdoor chess and petanque (a French game similar to Italian bocce) after their tasting room visit.

Chris Daniel Winery

Namesake winemaker for the Stewart family business is son (and WSU alumni) Chris Daniel Stewart, whose winemaking sensibilities were influenced by time spent with grape growers and winemakers in Chile and France. The winery and tasting room is located close to I-90, east of George.

Camas Cove Cellars

Located on the west shore of Moses Lake, south of I-90, you can kayak, powerboat, or even jet-ski to this boutique winery’s dock, when the tasting room is open. Add this stop to the Moses Lake Water Trail, which includes eight shoreline parks and points of interest (information and maps at cityofml.com). There are six public boat launches around the lake, including at Blue Heron Park. At the lake’s south end, there is an outlet to Potholes Reservoir and Potholes State Park.

Whitestone Vineyard & Winery

At Whitestone Ranch, this red-only estate winery and its Lake Roosevelt Shores Vineyard is located along the lower part of the lake, less than 30 miles behind Grand Coulee Dam. Visitors are welcome to arrive by kayak or boat. Anchor on the beach near Whitestone Rock and hike ¾-mile on the road to the winery facilities. For boat launch locations, visit the Lake Roosevelt National Recreation Area website, nps.gov/laro.

TRI-CITIES & YAKIMA VALLEY—Outdoor Highlights

Hikers, trail runners, and mountain bikers can explore Chamna Natural Preserve in Richland, along the Yakima River; Badger Mountain and Candy Mountain (friendsofbadger.org); Rattlesnake Mountain; and Hanford Reach National Monument.

For boating, fishing, and watersports, visit Sacajawea Historical State Park, a day-use park at the confluence of the Snake and Columbia, where there is also a trailhead for Sacagawea Heritage Trail—a 23-mile paved walking and cycling path along the Columbia River.

Columbia Park in Kennewick has a disc golf course, Audubon Nature Trail, and trailheads for both the Sacajawea Heritage Trail and Tri-Cities Riverfront Trail (20 miles, round-trip). Hiketricities.com has a comprehensive list of 40+ hikes and trails around the Columbia Basin.

Powers Winery & Badger Mountain Vineyard

Located on the southern slope of Badger Mountain, near Kennewick, this winery and certified-organic estate vineyard welcomes visitors to stay and enjoy the gazebo, picnic area, and rose garden. The winery hosts special events throughout the summer, including evenings with live music and food trucks.

Terra Blanca

Enjoy a tasting and tour of the winery and certified salmon-safe estate vineyard at Red Mountain. Afterwards, hang out at the dog-friendly courtyard or picnic area, or dine on brick-oven pizzas and salads at the Vineyard Grill, with a panoramic view of the vineyards and lower Yakima Valley. Spokane’s Cork District also has a Terra Blanca tasting room.

Goose Ridge Estate Vineyard & Winery

This 2,500-vineyard in Richland has a tasting room that also offers a small food menu and outdoor seating (no picnicking allowed).

COLUMBIA CASCADES

This AVA region boasts more than 50 wineries and tasting rooms, mostly near Lake Chelan but also in Leavenworth, Wenatchee, and at Lake Roosevelt.

LAKE CHELAN—Outdoor Highlights

This wine region has more than 25 wineries, estate vineyards, and tasting rooms, located at either the lake’s south side, near downtown Chelan, or in the small town of Manson, near Wapato Point. There are six public boat launches at Lake Chelan, the third-deepest lake in North America. Anglers can fish on the lake or head to the Stehekin River for fly-fishing. Stehekin Fishing Adventures fly shop provides guide services.

Both Lake Chelan State Park and 25-Mile Creek State Park can be base camps for hiking and boating. Head to the Upper Lake Chelan to visit Stehekin Village—the east side gateway to North Cascades National Park—which is only accessible by boat or paddle-craft or the Lady of the Lake ferry. You can also stay and play at Lake Chelan National Recreation Area or Holden Village. Washington Trails Association describes the Chelan Lakeshore Trail as good for an early-season backpacking trip—a 17-mile one-way thru-hike from Prince Creek, via ferry ride, to Stehekin.

Vin Du Lac Winery

In addition to a tasting room and farm-to-table bistro that hosts live music, this winery sponsors local biking and running events, including the Echo Valley 14/30/60 mile Mountain Bike Race on June 8; Echo Valley 10k, Half Marathon, 50k, and 100k on June 15; and Cycle de Vine and Century Challenge on June 22. (More information at vindulac.com and its “Outdoor Sports Series” webpage.)

Benson Vineyards Estate Winery

Tasting room and on-site Bistro with al fresco patio seating provides Lake Chelan and vineyard views. Summer concert series begins May 18.

Four Lakes Winery

From the town of Manson, drive the backroads to the winery’s tasting room and vineyard property to enjoy your wine from the spacious deck, with panoramic views of the surrounding lakes.

WENATCHEE & LEAVENWORTH—Outdoor Highlights: One of the best ways to enjoy central Washington’s hot sunny weather is on the water. Launch your kayak or power boat on the Columbia River at Rock Island State Park or Rock Island Hydro Park. Camping is available at Wenatchee Confluence State Park and Lincoln Rock State Park at Lake Entiat. For rock climbing, visit Peshastin Pinnacles State Park. (Learn more at visitchelancounty.com.)

Leavenworth tasting rooms are clustered in the downtown Bavarian Village, at the foot of the Cascade Mountains. Outside of town, the Icicle Creek area has rustic campgrounds and hiking trails. Venture into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and the Enchantments in the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest. West of town off Highway 2 is Lake Wenatchee State Park.

Martin Scott Winery

Located close to the Columbia River in East Wenatchee, the winery and vineyard offers tours, tastings, and hand-tossed, wood-fired pizza on Saturdays. In the summer, they host a patio dinner series.

Chateau Faire le Pont

Enjoy a tour and farm-to-table Northwest cuisine at this Wenatchee winery and its Chateau Grill Restaurant. Visitors are also welcome to picnic in the vineyard.

Icicle Ridge Winery

Known for its unique ice wines, this destination winery in Peshastin has a log-home tasting room and hosts outdoor concerts and Wine Hikes.

Editor’s Note: For current tasting room hours, be sure to contact each winery, or visit its website before you go (hours of operation change seasonally). Please drink responsibly and designate a driver for your wine tasting tour. //

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The Palouse: Kamiak Butte, Moscow Mountain, and Merry Cellars

The Hike: The Palouse is beautiful any time of year, but it shines in autumn when the fields have been cut and the rolling hills go for miles under a late-summer sun. Throughout these hills are stands of pine trees, and in those pines there are often trails, as with Kamiak Butte just outside of Pullman, Wash. Named after Chief Kamiakin of the Yakama tribe, this area is recognized as a National Natural Landmark and is worth the trek. It’s an easy walk to the top, as the main trail is a well-maintained path with a few switchbacks. When you reach the butte, you’ll be able to choose from several trails, such as Pine Ridge Trail, to weave your way along open vistas.

You can visit whitmancounty.org for a self-guiding nature walk brochure to learn about how this seemingly random group of pines came about. For a more challenging hike, trail run, or mountain bike session, drive 25 miles west and hit Headwaters Trail on Moscow Mountain. This hike will have fewer Palouse peek-a-boo viewpoints, but you’ll get a breath of fresh autumn air in the old growth cedars and soft singletrack trail making a 3.7-mile loop. Moose, bear, and cougar can be spotted here, so take appropriate precautions.

The Wine: Merry Cellars Winery is tucked up behind the Schweitzer Engineering Laboratories in Pullman, Wash. Housed in similar warehouse-style digs, the tasting room is a warmly-lit place with an expansive deck. Enjoy a glass of syrah, malbec, or Crimson, the winery’s Coug-themed red wine blend consisting primarily of Cabernet Franc. With a variety of red and white wines on tap and in bottles, you’ll be able to sample the gamut for a $10 tasting fee. From the tasting room, head to the outdoor patio to sip your glass among a small row of grapes tucked into the rolling hills.

Columbia Valley: Ancient Lakes Trail System and Chris Daniel Winery

The Hike: In central Washington, you can bank on sagebrush, basalt, and open, breezy views of the clouds rolling across the horizon. This primarily treeless location still has brush that flushes with the colors of fall, and the open expanse makes it easy to spot groups of white-tailed deer. The Missoula floods carved this area, so you can enjoy poking along basins and plateaus, and hunting for quartz, flint, jasper, or agates. While there are a small series of lakes and a desert waterfall, you should carry your own drinking water on this hike. The Ancient Lakes Loop connects with Potholes Trail, Dusty Lake Trail, and the Gorge Amphitheatre Trail, which offer stunning views of the Columbia River. Also in the area: rock climbing or hiking in the Frenchman Coulee near Vantage, mountain biking on Beezley Hill, and hiking on Monument Hill or in the Lenore Caves area.

The Wine: Chris Daniel Winery is kid- and dog-friendly. With a dry, French-style viognier, a rosé blend of Bordeaux grapes, and other beautifully bold Columbia Valley wines like a petit sirah/syrah, Chris Daniel will continue the adventure via your taste buds. There’s indoor and outdoor seating at this rural winery that abuts the flat farmland of central Washington. You’ll want to bring your own picnic-style foods to wineries in this area. There’s a network of great wineries here, including Beaumont Cellars (another rural gem tucked along an apple orchard), Cave B, Jones Winery, and wineries to the south of Vantage bridge that lead toward the Wahluke Slope.

Central Cascades: Mission Ridge, Palisades, and Chateau Faire le Pont

The Hike: A well-known ski area in winter, Mission Ridge has some great fall hiking options. You’ll find plenty of singletrack and elevation through the pines, made special this time of year when the western larch turn gold. You can clock miles on Devil’s Gulch trail, which includes various creek crossings and switchbacks up the side of Mission Ridge, or make a four-mile loop on Squilchuck Trail #1200 and stopover at Clara Lake. Visit Pybus Public Market before your hike to snag some fresh apples and artisan meats and cheeses to take on the trail. Consider walking through the public spaces of the nearby Palisades canyon for an away-from-it-all feeling among towering basalt plateaus.

The Wine: Chateau Faire le Pont has full-varietal grenache, carménère, and petit verdot, along with some tantalizing white wines and red wine blends. The quaint tasting room houses a restaurant with full lunch and dinner menus, making it a great post-hike stop. You can find anything from a locally-sourced tenderloin salad to a Columbia River steelhead entrée. After a chilly fall hike, try a cup of the French Onion soup with a glass of tempranillo. Make it a day by visiting nearby Martin Scott Winery, which has a great view of the surrounding Wenatchee hills and river.

North Cascades: Chelan Butte, Lake Chelan-Sawtooth Wilderness, and Local Wineries

The Hike: For a hike that’s close to town and looks over Lake Chelan, check out Chelan Butte. It’s a little over 7 miles round-trip, and you’ll gain 2,500 feet over this exposed terrain. If you’re searching for trees and alpine lakes, there’s plenty of neighboring backcountry options to explore in the Lake Chelan-Sawtooth Wilderness. You can even ride the Lady of the Lake passenger ferry up Lake Chelan, where it will drop you off at various hike-in trails, like Prince Creek; or, visit Stehekin, a community accessible only by water, float plane, or mountain trails. Hike the backcountry, then catch the ferry back and explore the wineries. Take note that the high-elevation destinations (think 7,000 feet plus) will feel more like winter than fall this time of year. Check Ladyofthelake.com for ferry schedules in the off-season.

The Wine: You’ll have many wineries and tasting rooms to choose from in the Lake Chelan area. Visit Karma Vineyards, Nefarious Cellars, and Fielding Hills Winery tasting rooms for lakeside views. Lakechelanwinevalley.com will have a full list. Near Manson, a small town along Lake Chelan with eight tasting rooms, there is the fun and notable Winegirl Wines.

Central Washington: Richland, Red Mountain, and Horse Heaven Hills

The Hike: If you know your Washington wines, you’ll know that Horse Heaven Hills is a popular AVA (American Viticultural Area). Turns out, it’s also a nice place to hike. You can go nearly seven miles on this open-vista plateau just south of Benton city. It’s only one of several hikes in the expansive scrub brush around the greater Tri-Cities area. Check out the Rattlesnake Slope Wildlife Area, Badger Mountain, or the Juniper Dunes Wilderness for hiking with a view of local wine country.

The Wine: If you’re in western Richland, be sure to visit Tulip Lane—it’s home to three wineries within walking distance, including the award-winning Barnard Griffin Winery (try their rosé of sangiovese). If you hike on Badger Mountain, you’ll have easy access to Badger Mountain Vineyard & Powers Winery, with a chill tasting room that will let you peruse the vineyard rows. Goose Ridge Estate is another must-try with its notable wines, seasonal ciders, and rural-feeling outdoor seating area. Be sure to spend an afternoon exploring the many wineries on nearby Red Mountain to sample wines from one of the most unique AVAs in the state. //

Lisa Laughlin is a runner and backpacker. She grew up on a wheat farm in central Washington and loves Washington wines. She wrote about rollerblading in the August issue of Out There.

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Although the 8,000-person town is the place to be in all seasons, locals and visitors alike agree there is something extra special about Sandpoint in summertime. With its bounty of parks, beaches, restaurants, trails, and entertainment, Sandpoint summers have something to offer just about anyone.

For those headed across the iconic long bridge for a bit of North Idaho adventure, and even locals who are still exploring their backyard, there are more hiking and camping options than could possibly be conquered in a series of weekends. But fortunately, there are a few must-do’s that shouldn’t be missed.

1. Camp at Green Bay, with its stunning series of private rocky beaches, beautifully jagged cliff faces, and access to lush trails and epic view points. Then, for near-town walks and hikes, stroll the Pend Oreille Bay Trail for easy lake vistas, and tackle Gold’s Hill or Mickinnick climbs for sweat-worthy lookouts ending among the clouds high above town.
2. Head northeast along historic Highway 200 to attempt to bag one of North Idaho’s tallest mountains, Scotchman’s Peak. The hike contains dirt-packed switchbacks, exposed scree scrambles, and views all the way to Canada—often shared with resident mountain goats.
3. For those seeking views without the exertion, try hopping the chairlift to the top of Schweitzer Mountain and strolling the wildflower and huckleberry-littered ridgeline. Even grab a bloody Mary at 6,400 feet elevation on the deck of the Sky House restaurant and bar while watching two-wheeled adrenaline junkies fling themselves off rock faces on mountain bikes.
4. For more beverages with a view, Sandpoint offers a plethora of sunshine drinking and dining options. Salads and sandwiches after a hike just taste better on the beach’s edge at Trinity at City Beach, and dinner on the deck of Forty-One South is often accompanied by a famous North Idaho sunset.
5. Beyond dining, being lakeside in Sandpoint has so much to offer. City Beach is at the heart of town, with soft sand for sunbathing; supervised swimming areas for splashing; and volleyball, tennis, and basketball courts for endless playing. Duck under whizzing Frisbees in the lush grassy areas, sling your slackline between pines, or take your pup over to Dog Beach for four-legged, tail wagging fun.
6. If being on the lake itself is what you’re after, stand up paddleboards (SUPs), kayaks, jet skis, and boats are available to rent by the day or weekend. Try your hand at water skiing, wakeboarding and wakesurfing, or simply bob among the waves with family, friends, and undisturbed sunshine.
7. If you’re more drawn to river recreation, grab your flotation devices of any kind and head over to the Pack River. The sun-soaked winding stream, with a combination of exposed and canopied shoreline and bountiful wildlife, is the place to be on a hot, summer day. Popular put-in destinations include the Pack River Northside Bridge and the Pack River General Store, and take out is commonly off of Highway 200 near Trout Creek Road.
8. Finally, summer is the perfect time to visit Sandpoint if you’re seeking an amazing destination for live music and entertainment in addition to your outside adventure. The Festival at Sandpoint is celebrating its 36th year of pairing breathtaking lake views with nationally-acclaimed bands and musicians. The venue is unique in its convenient casualness with a bring-your-own food and beer policy and first-come, first-serve general admission seating. This year, the headliners include Amos Lee, ZZ Top, Greensky Bluegrass, Phillip Phillips and Gavin Degraw, and Sublime with Rome.

It only takes one visit to understand what people mean when they say, “there’s just something about Sandpoint summers.” It’s the excited buzz of the residents and visitors, the glisten of the sun rays bouncing off the lake, the beauty of the surrounding peaks, and the ease of access to an undisturbed, starry night’s sky.

[Feature photo courtesy of Dan Chamberlain.]

For more ideas check out The Local’s Guide to Sandpoint.

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Last September, early enough in the month that summer was still full-on, we headed north for a few days of hiking, biking, touring wineries and checking out the interior B.C. city of Kelowna and the more mountain-town-sized Vernon. The number one takeaway from the trip was how shocking it is that more of us Americans who live so close to the border don’t make regular pilgrimages to British Columbia’s third largest city (with 127,000 residents) that is picturesquely situated along the shores of one of the largest lakes in southern British Columbia. Kelowna, which takes its name from an Okanagan First Nation’s word for grizzly bear, is an exceptional lake-and-outdoor-recreation-based tourist destination with all of the best urban amenities you’d expect from a small Pacific Northwest city.

Day 1: Kelowna

We rolled into town—after taking the faster, scenic backroad route to the border through remote northeast Washington’s Ferry County—and made our way to our downtown hotel where we immediately ditched our bags to set off exploring the area by bike. Situated right on Okanagan Lake, Kelowna is like a bigger, more cosmopolitan and urban-feeling Coeur d’Alene with more access to paved lakeside paths, hiking and biking trails, and renowned wineries. Our first taste of the town and lake was along the city’s 2.2k lakefront boardwalk. Families and friends gathered for picnics in the beautifully manicured ribbon of parkland. Dreadlocked millennials balanced on slacklines between giant trees. A mix of languages drifted off the tongues of tourists strolling past street musicians. Sail boats, motorboats, and paddleboards plied the wide expanse of blue water abutting the city’s well-developed and lively strip of resort towers, marinas, restaurants and bars.

On the north end of downtown, the boardwalk trail system eventually peters out where the resort strip transitions into a mix of residential and industrial development including a lake-side sawmill, but if you keep pedaling or walking north towards the mountain in the distance, you eventually reach Knox Mountain Park, Kelowna’s largest natural park that has a system of 15 hiking, biking and running trails accessible from several different trailheads near downtown. With dwindling daylight, we opted to save Knox Mountain for later on in the trip. We cruised on back to our room at Hotel Zed, an old downtown motel turned refurbished and revitalized hipster boutique hotel that comes with free use of bikes and roller skates, a ping pong lounge, pool and hot tub, classic rotary phones and comic books in every room, and, best of all, an unbeatable location dead-downtown and across the street from the lake, park, and boardwalk.

All cleaned up and on foot, we hoofed it a few blocks north to scope out the downtown Kelowna nightlife and hunt down some drinks and quality eats, which we found in abundance thanks to Kelowna’s sophisticated culinary and craft brew, spirits, and wine scene. We opted for a more casual evening and eventually settled in at a patio table at Fernando’s Pub, a few blocks from our hotel, where we chowed down on happy hour poutine, fish and chips, and tacos.

Day 2: Vernon, B.C., and Okanagan Lake Country
It’s a short and scenic 40 minute drive from Kelowna north to Vernon, B.C., and on the way, travelers on Highway 97 pass through the northern reaches of the province’s lake-studded, arid Okanagan wine region known as the Lakes Country. On the way to Vernon, we again took the scenic route, this time detouring off the main drag to check out several recommended wineries. Our first stop was for lunch and a tour of the Gray Monk Estate Winery. Our meal at Gray Monk’s Grapevine Restaurant and Patio was pretty much worth the drive from Spokane all on its own. We toasted a glass of bubbles surrounded by vineyards overlooking the stunning blue waters of Okanagan Lake. Of course we also sampled some of Gray Monk’s award-winning wine with our lunch before joining one of the tours of the wine making facility followed by a tasting and then a cheese and wine shopping spree in the gift shop.

Departing Gray Monk en route to Vernon, we made pit-stops at several more roadside wineries for tastings, encountering more of the usual relaxed and friendly conversations with staff and other patrons that are typical throughout much of interior British Columbia. And, after sampling more amazing wines, we added a few more bottles to the pile of hiking and biking gear and luggage in the car. Almost to Vernon, we made one final stop at Davison Orchards, a family-farm enterprise offering fresh fruit, vegetables, and other unique local products that reminded us of Green Bluff back at home.

After checking in at the Best Western Pacific Inn near downtown Vernon, we had dinner at the Midtown Bistro in the heart of town which was recommended for its fresh, local ingredients and inviting atmosphere. The menu included a huge and diverse selection of locally-sourced and house-made sandwiches, sliders and entrees. The owner brought out an epic charcuterie plate as a teaser for the OMG-this-is-amazing butter chicken and stuffed cabbage rolls to come. Midtown Bistro is the place to stop to fill your belly after a day of riding (bikes or boards) at nearby Silver Star Mountain Resort. You’re sure to find something to be stoked about on the vast and diverse menu.

Day 3: Ellison Provincial Park and Back to Kelowna

We were back on our bikes for a ride on the mellow cross-country mountain bike trails at Ellison Provincial Park near Vernon before breakfast. We took our time on the mostly single-track climb up through mixed conifer forest to the reward: expansive views of Okanagan Lake in the distance. After a fun, squirrely decent back to our rig, we continued on to Kelowna for our final night north of the border. Not wanting to miss a major local hiking attraction, later that afternoon we squeezed in a hike to the top of Knox Mountain, Kelowna’s version of Coeur d’Alene’s Tubb’s Hill, but with more acreage, trails, and elevation. The viewpoints on the way up and on top of Knox Mountain make for great Lake Okanagan gazing and photo ops of the beautiful city of Kelowna below.

After resting for a few minutes at the top with other hikers and trail runners, we hurried back down the trail to get cleaned up for our final night on the town, which for Shallan meant a pre-dinner yoga class at Hot Box Yoga a few blocks away, and for me, a few pints at my new favorite Kelowna eating and drinking establishment, Fernando’s Pub. We rallied later that evening for the wait-list worthy RauDZ Regional Table. Given how highly it was recommended by several locals we randomly polled, the small, jam-packed restaurant was surprisingly laid-back and comfortable and, not surprisingly, the dishes we tried, a huge plate of sautéed mushrooms, tomato salad with fresh herbs and local cheese, and melt-in-your mouth risotto, were simply prepared and totally delicious. Thankfully after an extended happy hour and a late dinner, it was only a few block walk to our room. Despite the energetic, Friday-night scene back at Hotel Zed, our last night in Kelowna delivered sweet dreams on soft pillows.

On our way out of town and back to the U.S., we wanted to weave in one more casual, leg-stretching bike ride. The Mission Creek Regional Park a few miles south of downtown Kelowna sounded about right. The trail system is 16.5 k in length; however, we only had time to pedal an out-and-back on the first 8k or so of the flat, wide pathway tucked in the trees along Mission Creek. Since it was September, the spawning kokanee were thick, and we stopped at every interpretive sign and creek viewing spot along the way to watch the brightly colored fish swim upstream toward their final days. While we weren’t able to pull it off on this trip, riding the entire trail system, including the Phase 2 from Ziprick Road to KLO Creek, would make for an adventurous day’s ride. The upper part of the trail features a canyon environment with a narrower trail, several bridges, and some steep hills with switchbacks.

Plan Your Own Trip to B.C.’s Okanagan Region

The two major tourism promotion agencies in the Kelowna and Vernon area provide invaluable information online (and in print at various visitor centers) covering things to do—from outdoor recreation opportunities to cultural and culinary options—places to stay and eat, events, and travel tips. Visit Tourismkelowna.com and Tourismvernon.com to help wade through the options and plan your perfect trip.

More Outdoor Adventures in the B.C. Okanagan

• Knox Mountain Park (easy to difficult)
  Trails of varying difficulty offer relatively easy-grade walking to some awesome views of the lake, city and mountains. The hike up to the Lower Crown Lookout (approximately 40 minutes to an hour roundtrip) or all the way up to the Upper Apex Lookout (about an hour and a half roundtrip). Some trails are open to mountain bikes too.
• Kettle Valley Railway—Myra Canyon (easy)
  This section of the Kettle Valley Railway (KVR) is highly lauded for its spectacular scenery, including 18 trestle bridges and two tunnels. The railroad line was originally built at the turn of the last century and was rebuilt again after wildfire damage between 2003 and 2008 when the Okanagan Mountain Park Fire claimed 12 of the trestle bridges. Bike or hike as far as you care to go before turning around and returning the way you came.
• Kalamalka Lake Provincial Park (easy to difficult)
  The centerpiece of this stunning park is the distinctively blue-green Kalamalka Lake, which gets its unique and beautiful color from dissolved limestone that crystalizes when the lake heats up in the summer. A network of hiking and biking trails traverse the park, with some leading to swimming beaches (try Jade Bay and Cosens Bay). Juniper Bay is the most developed and easily accessible area in the park and has a playground, picnic tables, toilets, water, and a swimming area.

• Silver Star Mountain Resort (easy to difficult)
  20 minutes from Vernon, Silver Star is Canada’s second largest bike park, featuring 125 kilometers of cross-country and downhill trails for every level of rider. A high-speed bike chairlift offers riders and hikers quick and easy access to the top where the trail choices include 18 downhill trails, 21 cross-country trails, four hiking-only trails, and two multi-use trails. //

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My buddy Phil and I were fortunate to ski two days at SilverStar in early December last year, where we enjoyed excellent early-season coverage and boot-deep powder each morning while things were just getting going back home. We were even more fortunate to be toured around the mountain by SilverStar’s then Winter Sports Manager Guy Paulsen, who also happens to be a member of the Canadian Ski Instructors Association Hall of Fame and a badass tele skier who is equally comfortable and accomplished on alpine gear and Nordic skis. We cruised the front side of the mountain, hopping around the several open lifts (there are a total of 12 lifts when the mountain is 100% open) and largely empty ski runs, which we were told was only a taste of what SilverStar has to offer. Unfortunately, the steep and deep mostly black and double black Putnam Creek zone on the backside of the mountain, a place that definitely needs to be on your bucket list, was scheduled to open a few days after we had to leave. But that just gave us one more reason to start scheming for a return trip in 2017. Paulsen led us around with a passion for and awareness of the mountain that was remarkable and contagious. He made sure we sampled favorite runs and took the time to ask us what we thought about the layout of runs and the flow of the mountain.

Our home away from home for the trip was at Snowbird Lodge, a high-end, apartment-style lodging option with a private hot tub that made chilling after a long day on early-season ski legs an epic relaxation experience. We happily sampled the many on-mountain eating and drinking options at night much like we systematically skied our way around the mountain by day. The Red Antler turned out to be a repeat favorite for lunch, dinner and drinks, with its laid-back atmosphere and Canadiana pub fare.

Morning number two started with another boot-deep powder day on the alpine trails before switching gears and gear for a late-morning Nordic ski tour of SilverStar’s truly world-class cross-country trail system that is the largest of its kind in Canada. The Nordic network consists of 55k of trails at the resort that connects to another 50k of groomed trails within the Sovereign Lake Nordic Centre. Back at the village, we contemplated taking rental fat bikes out for a spin but had the drive home ahead of us. With so many winter sport activities available in such quality and quantity right there out of the village, SilverStar is a paradise for active people who love winter and all of the different ways to get out and enjoy the cold, beautiful, snowy-white world. SilverStar is also on the way to and from other regional destination resorts, including Revelstoke, Big White and Sun Peaks, which makes an epic B.C. road trip tough to pass up when you start connecting the dots on a map. Visit Skisilverstar.com to plan your own SilverStar adventure. //

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Mount Adams, located in the Cascade Range 75 miles northeast of Portland, is the third highest of the Cascade volcanoes and the second highest mountain in Washington State (sitting at 12,276 feet above sea level). The summit of Adams is centrally located along the main north-south axis of the giant massif. Five glaciers drop off from the summit dome: the Klickitat, White Salmon, Wilson, Lyman, and Adams.

The standard South Spur route can be climbed well into fall, with September usually offering good ski descent conditions. One can ski the South Spur directly from the summit, although the skiing is a little steeper and more interesting from the false summit at 11,700 feet. An even more interesting descent from the false summit drops into the Southwest Chutes. Expert skiers can choose the North Face of the Northwest Ridge.

The standard South Spur route is accessed from Cold Springs Campground. From there hike on trail #183 up an old road trace which eventually emerges as a trail on the left skyline ridge after approximately 1.5 miles. The ridge trail will take you to a large flat area at approximately 9,000 feet, known affectionately as Lunch Counter. Although Adams can easily be climbed in a day, Lunch Counter is a common camping location.

From Lunch Counter continue up the south ridge. At approximately 9,700 feet the route steepens, and crampons and an ice axe are often needed. Follow the ridge up snow or talus slopes to the false summit. Cross the divide to access the true summit, approximately 600 feet higher in elevation. The entire climb from car to summit can be done in five to eight hours.

The easiest Washington State volcano ski descent is also located on the most famous active volcano in the continental United States: Mount St. Helens. With an elevation of 8,365 feet, it is located in the Cascade Range 50 miles northeast of Portland.

The best time for a ski descent on Mount St. Helens is spring to early summer. Early in the season plan on using alpine touring or tele skis and skins, while later in the season the ascent becomes an easy climb on steep pumice slopes. Climbing is limited to the south side by the U.S. Forest Service. Trailheads for an ascent vary by season, as State Highway 503 is open year round, while Forest Roads 83, 81, and 90 are usually open from Memorial Day until snow blocks the road. You have the option to camp at the Climbers Bivouac Trailhead, or at Climbers Bivouac via the Ptarmigan Trail. From there, it is a relatively easy ascent along Monitor Ridge. The ski descent is a mellow, enjoyable jaunt back down the south side.

When You Go: Information concerning Wilderness Permits and Cascades Volcano Passes are available at www.fs.usda.gov. The distance from Spokane to Mount Adams is 330 miles; it’s 360 miles to Mount St. Helens. Weather on the volcanoes can change rapidly. Sudden snowstorms can occur above 6,000 feet any month of the year. //

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With a major expansion of intermediate and advanced terrain and a new lift on Grey Mountain this season, Red has suddenly launched into the pages of prominent ski and outdoor magazines and even the New York Times! The secret is definitely out. Red and Rossland are a special, tucked-away anomaly of a ski hill and ski and bike town combo that doesn’t have to try too hard to be more than the extraordinary place it already is. But the new runs, new lift, sidecountry cat skiing and other improvements have really cranked up the mountain town cred a notch. We are so lucky to live so close.

Earlier this winter, in the middle of one of our bluebird sky, high-pressure system snow draughts, we made one of our first ski day trips of the year up to Red to check out all the changes first hand. Although it isn’t something that would have ever occurred to me as an option (even if I’d know they existed), Red set us up with a resort “snow host” to tour us around the mountain for the day. What exactly is a snow host? As we learned, it’s a free service provided by the resort to help get more people familiar with the mountain. Believe me, I was skeptical to say the least, but I highly recommend giving a snow host a try if you haven’t skied Red in a while or want to experience a little local terrain knowledge.

Without a snow host, and no powder to obsess over, our day would have likely been spent wandering around the mountain, half-lost half of the time, entranced with skiing the same long, sunny groomer over and over the rest of the time, with plenty of leg resting breaks. But we wanted to get a good sense for the new Grey Mountain terrain, and our snow host Gord Madge knew it and delivered.

After a round of friendly introductions, we followed our guide from the lodge through the swarm of kids surrounding a guy dishing out free hot chocolate from a backpack and made our way to the Silverlode Chair for our first ride of the day. On the ride up, we determined that Gord is a super friendly local who definitely has his priorities right: winters split between skiing Red and jaunts to Mexico and summers spent in the Kootenays where he runs a B&B on the Columbia River with his wife. We also determined that this man really loves to ski. We had already kept him waiting at least an hour past first chair, and it was clear the moment he shot off the Motherlode lift at the top of the mountain that he was eager to help us make up for lost time.

Gord, who has been skiing Red since well before I was born, proceeded to take us on a non-stop,  lift hopping tour we never would have accomplished on our own. From newly cut runs like Long May You Run and Gold Digger off the flanks of Grey Mountain, to long-time classics such as Rino’s Run and Back Trail, he pointed out names of runs, secret passages around cliff bands, hidden routes through the woods and steep off-piste lines. He shared local lore and a few mountain secrets (although I know he saved plenty). His enthusiasm for cranking out more turns, even on a day when all but the most inscrutable, north facing powder stashes had been tracked up for weeks, was contagious.

We never quite knew where Gord would take us next, but a few things were guaranteed after each run: we’d have smiles on our faces, our legs would be burning, and Gord would be waiting for us halfway down the mountain where he’d likely been hanging out for several minutes, already eager for the next run. At one point, after catching up with him, we paused for several minutes to give our legs a break and gape out at the sea of fog (the Kootenay Sea they call it), with distant peaks piercing the crystal blue sky, like we’d already done a half dozen times that day. I’m sure he was staring at us in quiet disbelief while we took another round of photos. His voice brought us back to the ski hill: “You guys really like nature, eh?” We laughed and agreed that yes, we like the outdoors a lot, but really, most of our sight-seeing stops served a sneaky secondary purpose we were sheepish to admit: we needed another rest!

Our last run of the day (a half hour or so before last chair) came too soon, but we were tired and ready for some refreshments at Rafters. I could sense Gord eyeing his watch and noting to himself that there was still time for one last run. “You should go for one more,” we urged him. Of course, always the attending, amiable host, he wouldn’t think of ditching us.

A jolly, muscle weary cheers was in order. We finished the day off with a few Okanagan ciders and an avalanche sized pile of nachos at Rafters with Gord and some other friends from Spokane who we randomly ran into at the bar. When they saw me scribbling away some notes on a napkin for a story the day had inspired, the response was predictable: “Shhhh, don’t tell everyone how good it is up here!”

OTM Picks

Lodging: For this trip, we stayed at the Casa Alpina. I’ve stayed there a few times, and the clean, quiet, basic rooms are perfect for a ski trip and come with a mini-fridge and microwave to help you save a little cash with in-room cooking. There’s also a hot tub, and it’s within walking distance of downtown Rossland (and on the Rossland Free Ski Bus route).

Happy Hour: I hate to say it, but I’d rather hang out at Rafters Lounge at Red than just about any Spokane pub any day. And I love Spokane and its many wonderful watering holes. High energy patrons, friendly staff, simple and comfortable tables and bar seating in a non-pretentious atmosphere, and everything you could ask from a ski hill bar food and drink menu – Rafters has it covered, and then some.

Red by the Numbers

Vertical drop: 2,919 feet

Total size: 4,200 acres

Lift serviced: 2,682 acres

Marked runs: 110

Number of lifts: 7

Longest run: 4.3 miles

Average snowfall: 300 inches

Base elevation: 3,887 feet

Summit elevation: 6,807 feet

Miles from Spokane: 128

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Located outside of Leavenworth along Icicle Creek is Sleeping Lady Mountain Resort, whose namesake peak creates a picturesque ridgeline above the grounds. The mini-flashlight attached to each room key is the first clue that it will be a unique stay experience.

After loading your baggage into a cart, you follow a paved trail to the “cluster” that contains your guest room. After dark, that mini-flashlight comes in handy.

But the layout of the grounds and muted lighting are the only things that make this place feel like an old church youth camp—which it was, from 1957 to 1991. The Yakima Diocese of the Roman Catholic Church called it Camp Field. (Before that, it operated as the family-oriented Icicle River Ranch after being redeveloped from its status as Camp Icicle for the Civilian Conservation Corps.)
No smelly bunkhouses here. Guest rooms are duplex style with shared walls, organized in clusters of four buildings—for a total of 6-10 rooms per cluster. Inside, the hand-hewn log beds and desks, down comforters and lamps combine with amenities like heated towel racks, plush robes, WiFi access and coffee maker.

There are no televisions in the rooms—which is great. No mini-fridges either, which means if you want to store some cold snack or food items, you have to keep a cooler in your room.

There are five different room layouts available, with space for up to 3-5 people, and there are two stand-alone cabins. A “Loft Room,” for example, sleeps five people, making it ideal for a family—kids old enough to climb the ladder can sleep in the loft’s full-sized bed. There are also “Canine Companion” rooms, where your dog is welcome and gets its own resort amenities (dog bed, food/water bowls, treats)—all for no extra charge.
In the winter, you can nordic ski on the 8km Icicle River Trail, which is adjacent to the resort. It’s part of the Leavenworth Nordic Trail System, which includes 26km of cross-country ski tracks and skate ski lanes. For downhill skiing and snowboarding, you can drive to Stevens Pass, Mission Ridge, or Leavenworth’s Ski Hill.

One of the unique features of this resort is the outdoor (and indoor) artwork on display at various locations—creating an Art Walk with over 35 pieces, including a nine-foot-tall “Chihuly Icicles” glass sculpture near the restaurant.

The resort’s sister property, Icicle Creek Center for the Arts (icicle.org), hosts a music performance series and various festivals throughout the year.
Other on-site activities include the Woodland Rock Pools (small outdoor hot pool and seasonal swimming pool), sauna, fitness room, playhouse (for board games, ping-pong, etc), and spa.

To reserve a room, you choose a specific “package.” Great Escape Package is the basic one, starting at $238, double-occupancy for one night. (Additional adults are $59 each, kids ages 5-12 are $25 each, and children age four and younger stay and dine free.) This fee includes gourmet dinner and a hearty breakfast, which are served buffet style at the resort’s Kingfisher Restaurant (alcoholic drinks and gratuity not included). Other stay packages are centered on activity themes, such as Romance, Sleigh Ride and Resort Yoga.

The restaurant looks and feels like a lodge; instead of booth tables, it has open “European-style” seating. Breakfast is served 7:30-9:00 am on weekdays (open ‘til 10:00 am weekends); dinner hours are 5:30-8:00 pm, with staggered reservation seating times. Non-guests are also welcome to dine at the restaurant.

Sleeping Lady is a member of the Chefs Collaborative, which is “a leading nonprofit network of chefs that fosters a sustainable food system through advocacy, education and collaboration with the broader food community,” according to the resort website. What this equates to is a lot of organic and locally and regionally sourced food. In fact, Sleeping Lady maintains its own greenhouse and two-acre organic garden.

At $39 per adult, dinner isn’t anything like a typical buffet—it’s fancy, with lots of organic, fresh offerings, from a creative and diverse salad bar (no iceberg lettuce here), to the entrée/hot dish bar (chefs serve and dress your plate), to the dessert bar. Plenty of kid-friendly options—pizza, homemade mac-n-cheese, make-your-own peanut butter and jelly sandwich, organic milk, fresh fruit, apple sauce—make it easy for kids to eat happy.

There are two other places to eat at the resort—O’Grady’s Pantry (open for breakfast and lunch) and the Grotto Bar (opens at 4:00 pm, pizza and drinks).

Sleeping Lady’s quiet months are late March, April and November, according to Lori Vandenbrink, the resort’s director of sales and marketing. The busiest months are June through August, she says, “with a combination of corporate retreats, weddings and leisure travelers.” December is also busy. Occasionally, the resort offers special rates via its Facebook page (facebook.com/SleepingLady). Overall, this unpretentious resort encourages a slower pace and lives up to its goal to provide “accommodations in harmony with nature.” You’ll return home wishing you could have stayed longer.

For more details, visit sleepinglady.com.

WHEN YOU GO
Sleeping Lady Mountain Resort is 190 miles from Spokane, just outside of Leavenworth. Take I-90 west to the junction of Hwy 281 near George; travel north on 281 to Quincy. Turn left on Hwy 28 and travel west to Wenatchee to Hwy 2. Travel Hwy 2 to the west boundary of Leavenworth, and then turn left on Icicle Road. Go approx. 2.5 miles, passing the Leavenworth National Fish Hatchery. Turn left into Sleeping Lady. (Amtrak stops in Leavenworth.)

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