The Access Fund is pleased to announce that they have acquired Alphabet Rock and Icehouse Boulders in Icicle Canyon outside Leavenworth. This conservation project is the result of a collaboration among Access Fund, the private landowner, local partner organizations, and the U.S. Forest Service (USFS). The property will soon be transferred to the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest, marking another success story for the Land and Water Conservation Fund (LWCF).  

The 11-acre private property includes Alphabet Rock and the Icehouse Boulders, as well as the initial access path to Givler’s Dome and outlier crags on adjacent USFS lands. Together, these granite cliffs and outcrops feature more than 40 historic cracks, slabs, faces, and hueco-filled roofs, ranging in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.13, as well as dozens of challenging boulder problems. The prominent 250-foot Givler’s Crack, Dogleg Crack, and Meat Grinder are just a few classics that have attracted climbers since the 1970s.  

The Access Fund now owns the parcel as a short-term holding, using funds from its Climbing Conservation Loan Program (CCLP). The same loan fund and conservation strategy enabled Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC) to acquire the Lower Index Town Wall in 2009. Since then, the Access Fund has loaned approximately $3.2 million to 27 climbing areas across the country. Now, the Access Fund will transfer the property to Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest later this year to permanently protect the area as public land. The USFS has secured federal LWCF dollars to complete the property transfer. Right now, the U.S. House of Representatives is considering permanent, dedicated funding for LWCF in the Great American Outdoors Act, which recently passed the U.S. Senate with bi-partisan support.   

“Historic crags like Alphabet Rock and Givler’s Dome have been a cherished resource to climbers for half a century,” says Leavenworth Mountain Association (LMA) Board President Alison Miller. “Protection of this parcel is an essential part of LMA’s work to conserve and steward climbing areas and natural resources throughout Icicle Canyon.”

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Located in Riverside State Park outside of Nine Mile Falls, McLellan is an ever-developing crag of granite. Whether it’s climbing, swimming, or both, McLellan waits with open arms. There are two parking options upon arrival: the upper and lower lot. Although some people have had problems with car break ins, this issue can easily be avoided by leaving nothing in a vehicle as incentive, and bringing a Discover Pass ensures a ticket-free day. Parking in the lower lot will put the Pack Rat Cave on the left, an overhanging collection of a couple 5.10’s, 5.11’s, and a 5.13 thrown in for fun.

Most of the bouldering is located closer to the upper lot, farther away from the water. Following the road/jeep trail out of the parking lot will lead to Long Lake and The Cove (Hummel’s Cove), a favorite swimming spot and the best place for cliff jumping at McLellan, for those looking for an extra dose of summer fun.

The mosquitos in the area have a reputation for being relentless, and if the bug repellent you pack along for the day just isn’t cutting it, then Long Lake isn’t far away. Checkout Snake Slab on the way to the water, which even has some options for trad climbers, and if the handful of easy-going routes here below 5.10 still aren’t cutting it, then a cool dip is just a few minutes away.

On the other side of Spokane, barely into Idaho, lies Q’emiln Park. Just off of Exit 5 in Post Falls, it’s easy to find: simply look for the beach and the climbing will follow. Once inside the parking lot (a small fee is required), look for the Q’emiln Park Trail System sign and head west to easily approach the numerous walls of the area. The great thing about climbing at Post Falls is the abundance of moderate climbs. There’s something special about being able to hop on 5.9s and 5.10s over and over again, without having to pack gear around to different walls.

Post Wall is closest to the river, while Death Fall Wall and Lower Ledge Wall take second and third. Post Wall has everything from 5.7 – 5.10.c, and is an ideal spot for those looking to set up top rope systems.

Death Fall Wall has a little more to offer from its overhanging nature, and anyone looking for a solid 5.11 will be content here. For the sun-loving climber there’s Lower Ledge Wall. Baked by warm rays all day, anyone who spends time climbing the 5.7’s – 5.11’s at this crag will be ready for a cool dip.

When the heat finally becomes too much, and fingertips burn from crimping on sharp granite, Q’emiln Park’s beach is the perfect stop. Soft sand and cool water aside, the park has picnic tables, three covered pavilions, and plenty of grass to lounge around on. Once the faint powder of chalk has been washed away from dirty hands by the Spokane River, why not sling a hammock between two trees? Slowly nodding off with every heavy blink, the weight of tired muscles will lift away. There is almost nothing better.

[Feature photo “Sarah Moeser climbing in the Pack Rat Cave at McLellan” by Jon Jonckers.]

Read more climbing stories in the OTO archives.

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Quite simply put, Banks Lake is beautiful, and there’s no better time to explore its crags than in the spring. With many climbs facing south, catching rays of sunshine is easy in March, April, and May. Most climbs can be hiked into, while some can be approached by boat or canoe, making Banks Lake a unique climbing destination. In terms of climbing style, most of the climbing is either vertical or slab, with routes ranging in length from one to five pitches.

But what makes Banks Lake so special? Many members of the climbing community would say that Banks Lake has the best collection of 5.9s and 5.10s in the state. With five designated climbing areas that offer variance in both difficulty and climbing style, there is no shortage of routes to choose from.

Highway Rock is most aptly described as a massive piece of granite. Towering at 300 feet, it has more than 70 climbs that face southeast, southwest, northwest, and north, which makes it easy to chase the welcome rays of springtime sun. As this area and Northrup Canyon lie on state park land, bring a Discover Pass. Golf Course Rocks is an almost-perfect granite outcropping that houses nearly a dozen routes, most ranging in difficulty from 5.7-5.10d.

Northrup Canyon is highly recommended by Rick La Belle, author of the guidebook “Rock Climbs of Central Washington.” La Belle has done most of the development in the area from 1996-2005, and says Picnic Table Rock at Northrup Canyon is the go-to crag for first time visitors. With a wide variety of climbs ranging in difficulty from 5.6-5.13, Picnic Table Rock will not disappoint. La Belle recommends Dr. Ceuse, 5.10 as one of the must-do classics in the area. Those with a fondness for slab climbing should head to Gibraltar Rock, another crag at Northrup Canyon, to climb How Homer Got His Groove Back—a 13-bolt 5.10b slab with plenty of crimps to go around.

For those climbers searching for even more adventure, reaching the Peninsula requires four-wheel-drive and a rugged hike in. A better approach is to canoe or boat two miles across Banks Lake from the State Park boat ramp to the Peninsula’s numerous crags. Many climbers will canoe across and camp on the beach, making for an unforgettable multi-day trip. All of the climbs at the Peninsula are south-facing, which means warm climbing in the spring. Post-Modern Wall at the Peninsula has both single and multi-pitch routes, but the real exposure and five-pitch routes come from the Orange Walls.

A copy of “Rock Climbs of Central Washington,” some climbing gear, a good partner, and an eye out for poison ivy and rattlesnakes are all that’s needed for a successful day of cragging. With spring comes renewed enthusiasm, and Banks Lake is the perfect destination for climbers looking to start the season off strong.

Originally published as “Chasing Spring at Banks Lake” in the April 2018 issue.

[Feature photo: Sara Moeser climbs high above Banks Lake. // Jon Jonckers]

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Can rock climbing get any cuter? Recently posted on Climbing Magazine’s Facebook (photo courtesy of Peter G. Williams)

8-year-old Madeleine Williams gets my gold medal for creative incorporation of outdoor recreation with the festive holiday spirit.  Madeleine, Heidi Rose Williams (6-years-old), and her mother, Betsy Phinney, made this gingerbread climbing wall for their local climbing gym, The Source, in Vancouver, Washington. Madeleine also participates there as a member of a Climbing Club.

Happy Holidays (OTM style)!

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