Summers in grade school, my friend Becky and I would occasionally pile blankets and pillows on thin mattresses on our back deck and sleep outside. I remember those nights for the long hours it took—after whispering secrets, adjusting blankets, and listening for danger—to fall asleep.

What kept me awake were the stars, those alien suns and planets dotting the night sky. I knew only a few constellations, nothing about black holes, very little about the Milky Way, but I wondered about it all. So vast the universe. So small my pillow.

The first week this past January, I met a friend for coffee downtown. She told me she was less interested in declaring New Year’s resolutions than in achieving small, low-stakes monthly goals. Smaller chance of failure, she said, taking a sip of coffee.

Lit by the brilliance of this idea, I went home and made a list of small things I could do each month to improve my experience of life. Meditation is on the list. Daily gratitude. Less drinking. More time in the wilderness. Kissing. Reading a wider array of authors.

And, in homage to my childhood, nights sleeping under the stars: going outside after dark for a series of “night hikes.”

“Will you carry a flashlight?” asked my friend. “Probably not,” I said, remembering my husband’s assertion that our eyes can adjust to the dark given time.

And so, on my very first night hike, I groped in utter blackness down the slope by our house, baby-stepping into the winter grass and cursing the wan stars, the unrisen moon, and the man I married. I made it only a few hundred yards before turning back to the well-lit house.

Slowly, night after night, as moon waxed toward fullness, I saw more and more. The outline of the Ponderosa trees, patches of old snow, my neighbor’s fence. I began to hear noises that raised my arm hairs: coyote howls, a rustling in the bushes, someone’s sputtering generator.

My eyes craved light. A neighbor’s porch light, the streetlamp, the glow of downtown Spokane in the distance. The sky itself changed from inky black to diffuse gray to yellow, depending on the size of the moon, the thickness of the clouds, and the brightness of snow on the ground.

Eventually, I found myself connected to it all, a person walking inside a great universe, breathing it all in.

Night hiking does not require a flashlight, although it can make it easier and safer, or a specific destination. And it can be accomplished in 15 minutes. But the best hikes are longer, taken with a friend, a thermos of cocoa, and plenty of warm layers, when the moon and stars shine in equal measure.

Choose a familiar place that feels safe, and give your eyes time to adjust to the dark. You’ll be rewarded with wonder. How vast the universe. How small the world.

Originally published as “Night Hikes: Make the Most of Short Spring Days” in the March-April 2022 print issue.

Heidi Lasher is a freelance writer and communications consultant. She wrote “10 Ways To Love Your Public Lands & Waterways” for the September-October 2022 issue.

Tips for Night Hiking in the Inland NW

Hiking after the sun sets is a great way to make the most of short spring days, when hitting the trail before dusk might not be an option. Find night hiking tips and Inland NW night hiking trail recommendations from Holly Weiler in the OTO archives from 2018. (OTO)

Originally published as “Night Hikes On Short Spring Days” in the March-April 2022 print issue.

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Azure skies, cinnamon cliffs, and blooming desert greet hikers and bikers in Southern Utah each spring when mud seems to define the Pacific Northwest.

With bikes, tents, and good humor, my family and I drove the 800 miles south while snow fringed the alpine regions. We entered the desert allure of warm days, fragrant nights, and lots of trails in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, a 1.87-million-acre public resource.

We discovered the quiet retreats of southern Utah many springs ago and return to refresh our love for exploring the Beehive State’s hidden slot canyons, gulches, sandstone arches and spires.

Hiking, Biking, & Searching for Condors

We arrived in the community of Escalante where 800 residents farm, ranch, recreate and welcome visitors to eateries, outfitters and lodgings. Situated at 5,800-feet above sea level, Escalante is a good launch for desert adventures.

We first stopped at the Bureau of Land Management’s Escalante Interagency Visitor Center to ask for trail suggestions—and California condor sightings.  

“If you’re lucky enough to see a California Condor, you’ll notice a numbered tag on it,” the employee told us. “That’s for research purposes.” This is to help keep track of the 70 condors residing in Utah and Arizona.

Willis Creek Narrows Slot Canyon

The visitor center folks pointed us to a warm-up hike in Willis Creek Narrows Slot Canyon, a 4.8-mile out-and-back in a wash. At 36 miles west of Escalante, it’s a surprise hidden among dense pines and Navajo Sandstone.

Willis Creek meanders a few inches deep through the canyon among pink and gold sandstone. As we walked, I checked overhead for condors—no luck.

(Editor’s Note: Be sure you’re properly prepared and equipped before hiking into any slot canyon.)

Day Hike Options

Over the next days, we explored the monument, driving to new spots such as the Grosvenor Arch Day Use Site, which affords several different hikes as well as biking on smooth roads with little traffic.

We tried other trails at our leisure: Coyote Gulch, Devils Garden, Spooky Gulch. My favorite was Lower Calf Creek Falls for the amazing 126-foot waterfall just 3.1 miles from the trailhead and the $10/night camping. No hikers seemed to travel the sandy trail through rabbit brush, Gambel oak, juniper and pinyon pines. (More info from the BLM about Escalante’s narrow slot canyons.)

Camping

Midway into our camp trip, while my family biked the slickrock, I opted for a $12 bathhouse shower at Escalante Outfitters and then waited for my crew to join for pizza and brews. Outfitters sells outdoor gear and much-needed cooler ice.

I filled our 5-gallon water jugs and had a cool drink on the porch. This sweet spot warmed me thanks to friendly folks, desert sun, and yummy treats while I pondered the ancestral Fremont and Ancestral Puebloan (sometimes referred to as Anasazi) who lived here AD 950-1100 and left rock art decorating the sandstone.

When my family rejoined, we enjoyed a quick meal and headed back to camp for our final night. (More info about camping and overnight accommodations and amenities.)

No condors this trip, but I will return in search of warm days, fragrant nights, and a possible glimpse of one of the largest raptors in the world in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.

Limit Your Impact on Utah’s Fragile Desert Landscapes

The Bureau of Land Management (BLM), that manages much of the public land in southern Utah, offers tips for limiting human impacts while in the desert that are relevant whether you’re exploring a national monument or your backyard trail or campsite.

The Gotta Go Utah website provides additional information for visitors to limit their impacts.

For more information, visit the BLM’s Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument webpage.

Find more travel stories in the OTO archives.

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The spring months are a special time to visit the Silver Valley and Wallace, Idaho, with a bike or quiver of bikes in tow. Crowds are unheard of this time of year, and there are a variety of ride types with varying distances, trail and road surfaces, and elevation gain to choose from. There is snow-free riding on the paved Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes, gravel routes with climbing that may require pushing or riding through snowy patches, and some scenic back-highway road rides.

The historic mining town of Wallace, Idaho, is an up-and-coming biking hub thanks to easy access to North Idaho’s two world-class biking destinations—the 73-mile Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes and 15-mile gravel-surface Route of the Hiawatha—but there are plenty of lesser-known paved and gravel routes nearby too. If you’re heading out to ride any of these trails or routes in the spring, be aware that conditions and weather can vary wildly, so plan accordingly.

Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes (paved path)

The Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes runs right through Wallace as it carves a path across the Idaho Panhandle through rolling hills of pine and fir and across wetlands. This trail is best for road or gravel bikes once the snow has melted or fat or mountain bikes when patches of snow persist. Schedule a shuttle with the Wallace Inn (208-752-1252) and make the one-way, 56-mile ride back from the town of Harrison, Idaho or have the shuttle drop you off at one of several trailheads closer to Wallace (here are some recommended ride routes). Enjoy the beautiful scenery and plan a pit-stop along the way for food and beverages (the towns of Cataldo, Enaville, and Kellogg have pubs/breweries along the trail). Keep an eye out for local wildlife such as eagles, swans, hawks, moose, or elk, especially on the sections of the trail between Harrison and Kellogg. Check out our article about wildlife viewing along the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes for more info.

Find all the info you’ll need to plan your ride on the Friends of the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes website. Avid local rider and friends group president Rick Shaffer shared a few of his favorite sections of the trail. “You don’t need to do a huge section or the whole trail,” explains Shaffer. He suggests the 10-mile stretch along Lake Coeur d’Alene or the 35-mile section along the Coeur d’Alene River between Pinehurst and Harrison. “That section is like biking through a zoo. Elk, moose, deer, hundreds of birds, and there is water on both sides of the trail in some places. It’s just incredible.” Shaffer also recommends the stretch from Mullan to Osburn in the Silver Valley. “It’s downhill, in the trees, and it follows some whitewater sections along the river.” Note that there will likely be snow on the trail at least in places between Wallace and Mullan, with the snow lingering in the Mullan area at least through April (spring 2022).

Northern Pacific Trail (NorPac Trail is gravel with snow possible)

Best for fat bikes in early spring or gravel or mountain bikes in late spring, this trail runs along the old Northern Pacific rail bed and goes from Mullan, Idaho, into Montana. Start your ride in Mullan for a shorter pedal, or add some miles by starting in Wallace. The NorPac is a multi-use, 12-mile trail with multiple surfaces, including pavement, compact dirt, and gravel, but you may also encounter lingering snow and ice up higher depending on the season. There are historic kiosks scattered along the route that climbs up and over Lookout Pass. This trail is best suited for gravel or mountain bikes, but a fat bike may be the right choice for early spring rides where running into snow is likely. Find all the route info you’ll need here.

Riding the NorPac and other Wallace-area trails in the early season where riding through or on snow is a possibility is its own unique draw, says Shaffer. “The contrasts of color are the best of the year with white snow, green grasses, flowering plants, blue sky, and bright sun. It’s photographic nirvana.” Cycling through short and even semi-long patches of snow, he says, adds a bit of excitement and adventure, be it on the Nor-Pac or Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes. “Patches of wet, snow, and icy trail surfaces all add to a cyclists riding experience with new elements of unsure trail surfaces. You need to maintain a balance of enough speed to blaze through a snow field but not torquing too much that you have to bail out of the saddle.”

Wallace to Burke Historic Road Ride (paved with gravel extension possible)

This relatively easy ride right out of Wallace is a great road or gravel bike ride that will take you through several small, historic mining towns on the 7-mile pedal to the once-thriving mining hub of Burke. The Friends of the Trail of the Coeur d’Alene Trail website describes this paved road route as fairly smooth with long sweeping curves light vehicle traffic. The climb is steady, gaining 1,000 feet on the way to Burke, but is gradual and not difficult. Continuing past Burke, the road turns to gravel and can be ridden on a gravel or mountain bike several thousand feet up to the top of a Cooper Pass once the snow melts away. Call the Wallace Inn and ask for Rick Shaffer for road and trail condition information (208-752-1252).

Nine-Mile Road to Dobson Pass (Paved with Loop Possibility)

Start this ride in Wallace on the Nine Mile Road (6th Street in town). This paved, maintained county road sees little vehicle traffic on the 6-mile climb to the top of Dobson Pass. Expect an 8 percent climb for 4 of its 6 miles with over 32 corners. After reaching the summit, the ride down the other side is a 12 percent grade. Make this a shorter out-and-back by turning around when you’ve had enough climbing or turn the ride into an epic loop.

The Friends of the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes group describes this loop route as going over the top of Dobson Pass, turning right on the River Road at Babins Corner/Prichard, and after many miles turning left at Enaville and onto the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes back to Wallace. Locals call this ride the Enaville Triangle, Sans Burmuda. It’s a super 58-mile loop. Additional miles can be added by taking a right a right over Kings Pass to the gold mining town of Murray for some good food and beverages and then heading west on State Route 9 to Prichard and on the way to Enaville. Call Rick Shaffer at the Wallace Inn (208-752-1252) for road conditions information in early spring.

Late Spring and Early Summer Riding Options Around Wallace

Route Of The Hiawatha: With opening day typically in late May, the Route of the Hiawatha is a breathtaking gravel-surface ride that’s suitable for the whole family. This rail-to-trail path will take you over seven historic, sky-high trestles and through 10 train tunnels on a slight downhill grade the entire way. Enjoy spectacular views of the Bitterroot Mountains on this 15-mile ride that is suitable for most adults and children who are comfortable riding a mountain bike or other bicycle with good traction tires for several hours. To complete the ride, a trail pass is required. Reserve your passes in advance online.

To make the ride easier, there is a shuttle service for a small fee that will bring you and your bike back to the top of the trail after your ride is done. The route is famous for St. Paul Pass, or Taft Tunnel, which is a 1.66-mile long tunnel that goes under the Bitterroot Mountains at the state line between Idaho and Montana (bring your bike light!). You can also rent bikes and child trailers and other gear from Lookout Pass.

Lengthen your ride by beginning at Lookout Pass’ parking lot (4,730 ft. in elevation) and following the old Northern Pacific railroad grade into Montana until you reach Taft Tunnel and the start of the Hiawatha. On the NorPac, the Borax Tunnel is closed, although there’s an easy detour around it. Note though that the shuttle service does not provide service to Lookout Pass. You can also head east from the Hiawatha on the Hiawatha Olympian further into Montana for additional riding. The route of the Hiawatha is a 7-mile drive from Lookout Pass (where you can rent bikes), which is just 12 miles east of the town of Wallace. Shuttle services from Wallace or Kellogg may be arranged via the Wallace Inn.

Route of the Olympian: Technically, this ride is a continuation of the Hiawatha Trail on the old Milwaukee rail bed, though it’s totally separate from the Route of the Hiawatha. You’ll continue to ride through tunnels and over scenic trestles, following the St. Regis River. This trail is a flat trail and free to ride; however, it is not a maintained trail and some trestles are unrideable. 

Old Milwaukee Railroad Trail: Starting from Pearson and traveling 35 miles into the town of St. Maries, Idaho, this trail is great for gravel riders. Composed of compact dirt and country gravel roads, you’ll ride along the beautiful St. Joe River.

More Wallace, Idaho, Bike Riding Resources

Check the Friends of the Coeur d’Alene Trail website for current trail conditions and closures depending on the season for all of the routes covered in this article. You can also purchase Digital GPS files for most of the above-mentioned trails.

Wallace, Idaho, Lodging & Dining

In and around Wallace you’ll find modern and historic hotels, motels, B&B’s, vacation rentals, and RV parks, depending on the amenities you’re looking for. And they’re all just minutes away from downtown and recreation options, with many places to rest your head within walking distance from historic downtown Wallace’s many excellent restaurants, bars, and breweries.

Newcomers and long-time locals alike continue to build a culinary and nightlife scene in Wallace unlike any other Inland NW mountain town. When you get back to your hotel after a day playing in the mountains, get ready to wander downtown Wallace for an experience that’s part historic walking tour, full of gastronomic surprises, and includes enough breweries, wine-sipping spots, and late-night bars frequented by locals with a penchant to party that will keep you out later than you planned.

(Sponsored Article)

The post Find Adventure & Solitude On These Spring Rides Out Of Wallace, Idaho appeared first on Out There Venture.

Dedicated dirt riders often find themselves getting desperate this time of year, between spring’s false starts and freeze-thaw cycles. Take a break from researching flights to Vegas and plan a weekend to Echo.

With a population hovering around 700, Echo is aptly named; stand in the middle of Main Street most days and you’re bound to hear nothing but the distant hum of the highway. The zero-stoplight town lies along the Oregon Trail; wagon ruts from that historic route are still visible nearby. (Editor’s note: Learn more at National Park Service Echo Meadows – Oregon National Historic Trail.)

Thanks to the owners of Sno Road Winery, riders have the Sno West Ranch and Vineyard trails to savor. And if there’s one thing that wine and wheels share, it’s an appreciation for good dirt.

Loyd and Lois Piercy offered their uncultivated land on either side of Alkali Canyon to the trailbuilding hand of former pro rider Shayne Myers, who began scratching out berms and stacking wooden features in the sandy sagebrush and bunchgrass a decade ago. Myers, along with his wife Stephanie, owned Echo Bike and Board, which was for a number of years the hub of Echo’s cycling nano-scene.

Echo Singletracks

Today the trail system encompasses around two-dozen miles of rolling, buffed singletrack on rolling, wind-buffed hills. There’s little in the way of technical challenges, although the narrow, occasionally faint singletrack will provide a good test of lateral balance for those of us who have been doing all our rides on a trainer the last few months.

Trail Recommendations

Riders should start with A Trail, a five-mile loop out of the trailhead parking lot. A Trail, like all the routes here, is designed to be ridden in either direction depending on your preference for long mellow climbs and short punchy descents or vice versa; however, counter-clockwise ends the ride with big views from basalt outcroppings and some big sweeping berms.

Stack on Shayne’s or Shelly’s Trail, or go further afield on B and C trails. Most loops average about two miles, so it’s easy to add or subtract mileage depending on your early-season conditioning.

Across the road, the Vineyard Loop circles the vineyard with some moderate exposure on a rocky bluff above the Umatilla River before closing the loop on the dirt access road. The private landowner occasionally closes the gate, requiring riders to re-trace their route. Fortunately, the views are just as good in the other direction.

Safety Precautions

Echo receives about seven inches of precipitation a year, so wet riding is unlikely. The wind, however, is another matter, especially given the lack of tree cover. Riders should be mindful of rattlesnakes and ticks when things warm up as well. But they are a small price to pay for the feel of soft, sandy soil under the tires when the ground is snow-covered or sloppy back home.

Local Amenities

Regardless of your route, finish off with a visit to the Sno Road Winery tasting room back in town and raise a glass to early-season singletrack salvation. Learn about other amenities and stay accommodations on the city’s webpage.

Annual XC MTB Race

The trail system hosts the annual Red to Red XC mountain bike race too, every March. The unofficial kickoff to the dirt racing season in Oregon, Red to Red, which begins and ends on Main Street, effectively doubles the size of Echo for one weekend.

Aaron Theisen has contributed to a number of mountain bike magazines, including Freehub, Mountain Flyer and Dirt Rag. He wrote about the joys of late-season biking in the November/December issue.

Find more stories about biking in the OTO archives.

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